Fighting moles with repellers. DIY electric trap for moles and mole rats

Alarm clock repeller

To be effective, you need to have several alarm clocks that have different alarm times. Alarm clocks are placed in jars, which are closed with lids and installed in different places on the site. The best option is to bury containers with alarm clocks in the ground. As a result, after a certain time, all alarm clocks underground will start to go off stably. Sounds regularly made in the area will force moles to look for more comfortable places.

The second option consists of a pipe buried in the ground into which an alarm clock is placed on a string. Thanks to the rope, such an alarm clock can always be taken out of the pipe.

142 Alarm clocks against moles.

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Homemade mole traps with your own hands (assembly of different types and types, photo)

Homemade mole traps with your own hands (assembly of different types and types, photo)

1. Do-it-yourself mole trap from a pipe Everyone has long known that moles cause some damage to flower beds, vegetable gardens, meadows, fields and fruit nurseries. Without using plant food, but digging shallowly from the soil surface, moles disrupt the root system of plants and destroy earthworms. But worms are the main producers of humus. In addition, they dig up a lot of soil, and this does not at all decorate flower beds and lawns. In general, in any case, all the consequences are quite unpleasant, and few people know how to get rid of them. After many trials of rodent extermination, a solution to the problem was found. They created special mole traps that were able to overcome this pressing problem.

The mole trap is a piece of plastic pipe, at the end of which there are 2 galvanized steel dampers. The damper is fixed to the axis in such a way that moles can freely enter the pipe and cannot get out. The flap closes behind the moles under the influence of gravity, otherwise the moles can easily remove it. Shape of bracket and valve in more detail:

A small bar is left at the top; it prevents the lid from turning outward, resting against the top of the tube.
The lid is not round, but oval. Space is left for it to move freely. Galvanized or stainless steel wire is threaded through the top and secured at the top. There should be no sharp parts inside the tube. Only outside. The mole is terribly afraid of anything spicy. Now let's talk about installing a mole trap. The most important rule is the correct choice of location for their installation. It is useless to set traps in a pile of earth that moles have dug up. You need to go around your area and trample the whole pile. After some time, the passage that is visited by moles will again acquire dislodged soil. This move can be used to set a trap. Cover the inlet of the pipe and damper with earth. When installing the mole trap, your hands must be gloved or simply clean; under no circumstances should you smoke or use perfume - after all, moles have an excellent sense of smell. In this case, the mole will never climb into the trap. It is necessary to carefully open only that part of the passages where mole traps could be installed. The lower edges of the pipe should be buried in the ground so that there are no thresholds at the entrance to the traps. You can pour nothing at all of earth in front of the valve and into the pipe itself, but in such a way that excess earth does not interfere with the closing of the valves behind the mole. Cover the top of the trap with a piece of plywood or turf. This is done so that the moles do not notice anything strange and move in this direction. Practical recommendations that will help you use mole traps even more effectively. In search of food, the mole constantly makes a feeding passage, which is located at a depth of two to five centimeters and has a poorly compacted wall. The mole usually rarely uses its own power again. Basically, it uses a constant passage, which lies at a depth of fifteen to twenty centimeters and is distinguished by a smooth compacted wall, since several families of moles use a constant passage. It was found that mole holes can be easily found by their discarded piles of earth, which usually combine the two nearest ones. Mole traps must be installed in the densest soil in the form of paths where moles are forced to dig, which is why most moles use this route. For greater effectiveness, install four to five mole traps in different places on the site and check them two to three times a day. 2. Mole trap in the form of a sick trap (noose)
Do-it-yourself drawings of a mole trap-noose:

Among the disease traps in our country, mole traps, wood traps and various other traps are used, similar in design to the well-known spring mousetrap, the so-called Gero die. Traps of this type do not have paired arches or jaws, with the help of which the limb or body of the animal is pinched. This is their main difference. The main pressing part of these traps is a lever, or clamp, usually acting by the force of a spiral spring. The most common of them are mole traps. There are many known designs of mole traps, very different in design. Currently, a standard single-acting mole trap consisting of a frame and a guard is widely used. The frame is made from one piece of steel wire with a cross-section of 3.3-4 mm. Individual sections of the frame serve different purposes in the process of catching a mole.

Through the round entrance ring the animal enters the mole trap. A guard is suspended from the upper support rod. The pressure lever, or clamp, has the shape of a rectangular, not completely closed frame and ends with a straight rod. Between the support and pressure levers there is a spiral spring of two and a half turns. The spring should provide an alarming force of 4-6 kg and press the animal to the bottom of the entrance ring with a force of 2-2.5 kg. The disadvantage of a standard mole trap is the inconsistent effort required to disengage the trap. This force ranges from 10 to 100 g, although according to technical conditions it should be 40-50 g. The mole trap, proposed by the Ural hunter F.D. Beltyukov, differs from the standard square entrance frame and a different system of alarm mechanism, which consists of an alert and gatehouse. When alerting, the clamp is placed on the guard near the fold, and the end of the long arm of the guard is hooked to the guard. The alarming mechanism of this mole trap has greater sensitivity and a more constant release force of the trap.

Hunter of the Belokataevsky region of Bashkiria G.I. Ishtuganov proposed a new guard for mole traps, providing a constant disinhibiting force of 40-50 g. Ishtuganov’s guard consists of a ring with a roller and an earring. The earring is suspended on the support arm of the mole catcher. On its lower end, slightly bent forward, a roller is put on, which is a small annular spiral of 2-3 turns, twisted from thin wire. A clamp is placed on this roller during alerting. The guard ring, which blocks the animal's progress, has an oval shape, flattened at the bottom. When entering the trap, the mole presses on the guard ring, while the roller, rotating on the earring, releases the pressure lever, which crushes the animal. The high sensitivity of this alert increases the catchability of the mole trap by an average of 10%. Wooden trap. The wood trap consists of seven parts: a crutch, an axis, an arc, two spiral springs, a guard and a guard. The weight of the trap is 210-220 g. The crutch is a metal strip 190 mm long, 16 mm wide and 4 mm thick. Its lower end is sharpened in the form of a wedge.

Three holes are drilled in the crutch, which serve to secure the axle, guard and guard. The axis is made of wire with a diameter of 5 mm and has a length of 150 mm. Two spiral springs made of wire with a diameter of 2.5 mm are mounted on the axis; a combat arc in the shape of the letter P rotates on it. The size of the arc is 120x120 mm. When installing the trap, the arc is rotated 340° and pressed against the crutch. Holding the crutch and the arc pressed to it, place it at a right angle with the tip to the tree trunk and several blows with the butt of the ax on the upper end of the crutch, drive it into the tree at a height of 120-150 cm from the ground. To alert a trap, you need to attach a bait of dried mushrooms to the hook of the guard, raise the arc to the crutch, throw the guard over it and hook its end to the guard. The alert trap is covered from above with branches of coniferous trees, so you can only approach it from below from the alert side. When the animal takes the bait, it pulls the guard off the guard, the arc is released, hits the animal and presses it to the tree trunk. On the Internet, even on specialized sites, there is a lot of unreliable, incomplete information about moles and the fight against them. There is an opinion that a mole can be driven away with pungent (foul) smelling substances. In fact, this is not so; the mole easily blocks part of the labyrinth with earth, digging a bypass hole. There is also an opinion that the mole is afraid of various noise effects. And this is not so, otherwise how can one explain that the mole happily inhabits places near railways and roads. My experience shows that all sorts of “noisemakers” create some inconvenience for the mole for a while, then the mole adapts to the inconvenience and returns to its normal way of life. However, there is a simple, radical and economical way to fight moles in your garden that I have tested over the years - catching the animal using standard wire mole traps. In a small area, it is enough to have 4-5 pairs of mole traps. When 15-16 individuals are caught, the local mole population degrades and raids practically stop. But mole traps must be in the holes at all times. The photo shows mole traps and a file. A file is an integral device necessary for alerting a mole trap. Important! The heel of the guard and the stop on the shoulder of the crush are carefully cleaned of rust with a file in the LONGITUDINAL DIRECTION, and not in the transverse! Important! The spring of the mole trap is pressed into the ground AGAINST the movement of the animal through the hole! 3. Drawings of a mole trap with your own hands on a wooden base.

1. General view of the trap in a charged state. 2. View of the trap with the mechanism released: A - front view; B - side view; 1 - spring; 2 - crush; 3 — hook for bait; 4 - gatehouse. The principle of operation of a spring bag is very simple. It is attached to the tree in a vertical position. I hang bait inside the trap. The marten climbs up the tree into the trap and pulls the bait down, thereby alerting the animal, and the animal is forcefully pressed with a wire crusher to the inside of the front wall. A spring bag has a number of advantages over traps, which is why I give it preference. The trap does not require annual treatment; it can be used for many years. The bait is inside the trap and is not pecked by birds. And you only need a little bait; there is enough squirrel for four traps. The spring bag is hung on a tree and does not require any additional cover. There is no need to be afraid that the trap will be covered with snow or frost will set in after a thaw - it will always remain operational. A marten, once caught in a trap, dies very quickly, so there are no catches. And one more quality of the spring bag is that it is universal; martens, stoats, and squirrels fall into it equally well. 4. An example of implementing an interesting do-it-yourself mole trap with several inputs. https://pensionerka.net/dom_master/myshelovka/myshelovka.shtml Author Lev Borisovich Vyskubov In this article I give a detailed description of how to make an effectively working mousetrap, or mole trap, with your own hands from scrap materials. The basis of the mousetrap is a wooden block (board) with approximate dimensions: length 200 mm, width 120 mm and thickness 40-50 mm. First, on one side of the board we drill holes with a diameter of about 30 mm, blind, to a depth of 80-100 mm. Then, at a distance of about 5 mm, we make a cut 2-4 mm wide, this width is obtained if the cut is made with an ordinary hacksaw with a not very large tooth. The cut is not made to the end, so that a thin plate (item 1) about 5 mm thick remains, which on one side remains connected to the board. For a strong connection with the main board, thin strips (item 2) are inserted into the cut, secured with small nails. The strips are located between the blind holes and should not overlap them. The plate can be made from a separate plank or plywood, but then you will have to make holes in it that are exactly aligned with the blind holes in the main block, and this is difficult. At a distance of about 10 mm from the cut, in each hole we make two transverse holes of small diameter (item 3), into which the trigger thread will then be threaded. Holes with a diameter of 2-3 mm should be located at a distance of 10 mm from each other so that the trigger thread (item 4) (discussed below) evenly covers the blind hole. Holes of small diameter pass through the block. Now you need to make springs that will hold the caught rodents in the mousetrap. The springs should be made of carbon steel, the easiest way is to use bicycle spokes. The spring is given the shape of two straight sections, between which it is bent into a ring (item 5). One straight section ensures fastening of the spring in the board; its length should be approximately equal to the thickness of the board, and the second straight section is a working section and its length should be slightly less than the width of the board so that the end of the spring does not protrude beyond the edge of the board.

To ensure that the fastening of the spring to the board is reliable, part of the ring is recessed into a groove (item 6) made in the board. The easiest way to make grooves for the springs is to select a corner of the board using a tongue and groove tool, and then cut inclined grooves over each blind hole with a hacksaw to a depth of about 5 mm. The angle must be selected from the side of the board opposite the side in which the blind holes were drilled. Of course, all these selections and cuts should not reach blind holes. To attach the springs, holes are drilled in the board with a diameter equal to the diameter of the spring wire. The holes are located in the corner, away from the edge. The spring is inserted in a short straight section into the hole, so that the spring ring fits into the sawn groove. To prevent the spring from falling out, it should be secured with a wire pin or a bent nail (pos. 7), although this is not necessary if the groove width is small.

Now on each spring we make a catching loop from thin steel wire. Loops can be made from any wire that will not bend under the action of a spring when the loop is held by a latch. A thin steel wire with a diameter of 0.3-0.5 mm is sufficient. The main thing is that the rings pass freely through the cut in the block, which we made at the very beginning of making the mousetrap. The loop (pos. 8) has a diameter approximately equal to the diameter of the blind hole plus the thickness of the board from the edge of the blind hole to the bottom surface of the board. The loop is screwed to the spring so that it can move quite freely along it. This completes the manufacturing process. Now let's move on to the loading process.

To load the mole trap, you need to compress the spring so that the wire loop passes through the cut right through and protrudes from the back side of the block in the place marked (pos. 9). Unfortunately, the protruding edge of the hinge is almost invisible in the photo.

To simplify loading, it is convenient to use a wire retainer (pos. 10), which is usually stored in a specially drilled blind hole of small diameter (as seen in the photo), and when loading is inserted into a wire ring on the back of the bar in the place indicated by pos. 9. After installing the clamp, the spring is kept compressed, and your hands remain free. A thick thread is pulled through small-diameter holes and tied with a loop. The thread should be thick enough to hold the spring cocked, but not too strong that a rodent could bite through it. It is better to use cotton threads rather than synthetic ones. The loop covers the spring and crosses the blind hole in two places.

After tying the thread, you can compress the spring a little and remove the lock.

The spring will tension the thread loop, and the wire ring will rise slightly, but will remain outside the edges of the blind hole, without blocking it. Other holes are charged in the same way. Then a little bait, for example, nuts, is poured into the blind holes, so that the bait is in the depths. When a mole or mouse tries to get to the bait, it chews the thread and the spring lifts the wire ring, which catches the animal by the neck. 5. Types of industrially produced mole traps: Happy hunting!

Based on Internet materials

Maximan

Is mole control necessary in a summer cottage?

The fight against moles in a summer cottage is necessary and obligatory: if you don’t fight them, then you will have to abandon the garden and not plant anything, because every year their numbers will increase exponentially and the losses from them will be awesome.

What a pity it is when moles sneak into the greenhouse! The roots of tomatoes or cucumbers hang in the air, and since molehills are not always visible, you can wonder for several days what happened to the plants until you feel all the soil with your hands. Buried plants get sick, they need some time to recover, and time is already short during the gardening season: either spring is a whole month late, or in the summer there is hail and cold rains...

In autumn, moles are especially active, throughout the entire area, without dismantling the bed, path or lawn, because:

the soil is moist everywhere and earthworms are in general accessibility: the beds are dug up, the soil on them is loose. Paths are also a good help, because in moist, compacted soil, worms like to hang out under discarded tops or weeded weeds. And the turf, in general, is a “storehouse of food”, because earthworms are very fond of wheatgrass roots.
moles are looking for a place for their new burrows and in their search they dig up not only beds and even not so dug up beds, but untouched virgin soil located under the turf, such as lawns. It is under the turf surface that they make their burrows for the winter and, accordingly, dig long passages in different directions: entire labyrinths for their winter life. Nesting chambers and resting rooms for moles are located no deeper than 1 m from the ground in both summer and winter, and passages are at a depth of 10 cm. Under turf and snow (they choose places where a lot of snow accumulates and do not like places where the snow is blown away by the wind) They are warm enough in the passages and living rooms. In winter they do not sleep, but lead a slightly less active lifestyle than in summer, feeding on larvae overwintering in the ground, for example the May beetle, and therefore autumn is a hot time for them, when they can make numerous additional moves, getting out to the surface that is not yet covered thick layer of snow. They make large mounds as an aerator valve, through which air will flow into the passages even under a layer of snow.
under the turf (lawns) there is a fairly comfortable microclimate for a variety of garden animals - insects and worms settling in for the winter, so moles on lawns make not just mounds, but long paths with mounds, thereby distorting the entire lawn. In their numerous moves, moles stock up on food (they bite off the front part of the worms so that they lie fresh, but cannot move) for their winter food.

Since our lawns are not only a pleasant-looking space, but also a lot of work put into them, it is understandable that there is a lot of frustration over moles digging them up.

I must say that the moles have occupied our site so much that there is no way to save us from them: such well-known methods as kerosene and rotten fish (for a short time until the smell disappears), the turntables that we have in every bed do not help in the summer, but when the wind no, the moles are simply going on a rampage, barging the beds up and down. This season, saving greenhouses from their invasions, it was necessary to lay nets on the beds in one of the greenhouses, and to install corrugated sheets vertically around the perimeter in others. I’ll probably write a separate article about this with photos. In the meantime, let's continue about the vibration method.

The harm from moles is much greater than the benefit

These underground animals come to the site in search of food - earthworms, insects, slugs, and wintering larvae. Animals do not like sandy or swampy soils, and garden plots with many “tasty” inhabitants in loose soil are very attractive to them.

Every gardener wants to get rid of moles in their summer cottage once and for all, because they:

damage plant roots;
reduce the number of earthworms aerating the soil;
bring low-fertility substrate to the surface, deteriorating the quality of the soil;
create ready-made “moves” for rats and mice;
undermine the roots of fruit trees (this destroys the plants).

If there are moles in the garden or vegetable garden, they will not ignore the neighboring area. But the animals not only cause harm, their activity also has a beneficial side:

Loosening the soil saturates it with oxygen and enhances crop growth.
Underground molehills (passages) increase the nitrogen content in the soil.
Pest larvae living in the soil die.

Attention! The activity of underground pests in the fertile soil zone causes significant damage to the crop. Therefore, all farmers are ready to fight moles in the garden and win.

Features of moles

Before you start fighting moles, you should study their habits. The knowledge gained will help you better understand them and find the most effective ways to counteract them. According to the observations of zoologists, moles have the following specific features:

Moles live in families. If you find one of them on your property, you can be sure that several more have most likely taken up residence nearby;
hibernation. In winter, worms and insects, the usual food for moles, disappear, so moles also go to winter. To do this, they build small mounds, which can be easily identified by piles of loose earth, clearly visible from afar;
They make passages underground at shallow depths. This is where larvae, bugs and worms live. The tunnels themselves can reach a length of 100 cm;
great strength and speed. People, as a rule, see these pests already in a neutralized state - in traps or in their hands. However, it is not recommended to catch them without protective gloves - they can easily wriggle out and bite a person’s fingers;
poor vision and strong sense of smell. Their eyes are small, but moles are not deprived of vision. For balance, they were naturally given excellent hearing and sense of smell;
mental capacity. These animals are able to remember their mistakes and not make them again; they also easily adapt to rapidly changing circumstances.

As you can see, fighting moles is much more difficult than fighting insects, so the home owner must take into account everything that can help him in this confrontation.

Design and device

My friend, a big fan of growing vegetables on his own plot, Ivanov Gennady Vasilievich, came up with the design, manufactured and tested in practice the effectiveness of four devices for repelling moles. The design is very simple to manufacture and requires virtually no financial costs. Gennady Vasilyevich kindly provided me with one of the devices for repelling moles for the preparation of this article.

The body for the mole repeller device was a metal can of dry cat food, which contains all the parts. The jar is hermetically sealed with a plastic lid and prevents water from getting into it from rain and when watering the garden. To make a mole repeller, any metal hermetically sealed can of a suitable size, for example a coffee can, is suitable.

The TK-67-NT telephone capsule, which is widely used in landline telephone handsets, is used as a sound wave emitter in the repeller. This is a simple and reliable emitter and can be taken from any old phone. The capsule emits sound well in the frequency range from 300 to 3400 Hz, which is exactly what is needed, and has an electrical impedance module at a frequency of 1000 Hz, 260 ± 52 Ohms. And most importantly, the capsule made it possible to easily solve the problem of sealing the case and at the same time greatly increase the efficiency of the mole repeller due to its original installation in the case.

The cap is unscrewed from the primer, the metal membrane is removed (pictured on the left), and it is simply attached to the bottom of the can (pictured on the right). To prevent the capsule from moving along the bottom of the can, its body is fixed at one point with a drop of silicone. You can come up with another way of fastening. The fact is that a permanent magnet is built into the capsule, and the capsule, applied to the metal, becomes magnetized and holds well. You just need to limit its horizontal movement. With this type of mounting, the sound emitter is no longer the membrane, but the can itself. Due to the loose connection to the bottom of the can, the capsule vibrates during operation, and the sound produced is very unpleasant, hoarse with large nonlinear distortions. This sound turned out to be very suitable for a mole repeller.

In the jar, on the inside along the perimeter, at a height that provides placement of three batteries and a printed circuit board for the mole repeller, three corners are soldered with solder, and a round plate (second bottom) of any material with a hole in the center for wires is installed on them.

Metal paper clips were used as the material for the corners, but the corners can be made from any material that is soldered with tin-lead solder, for example, copper wire, steel strip, etc. The length of the corners is selected based on the size of the flat partition - the second bottom, and its size is determined by the diameter of the neck of the jar.

On the second bottom there is a mole repeller switch to turn off the batteries when transporting the device or in case of non-use. But you don’t have to install the switch, but connect the batteries using the connector.

Since the operating conditions of the mole repeller are harsh, the temperature can range from zero to 50˚C, and to simplify the design, the batteries are connected to the wires of the device and interconnected by soldering. To prevent short circuits from the metal walls of the case, the batteries are wrapped with insulating tape.

To prevent short circuits between the tracks and elements of the printed circuit board, it is placed in a plastic bag, which is tied with thread at the point where the wires exit.

The batteries and the printed circuit board are placed on the second bottom of the case, all that remains is to close the lid and the mole repeller is ready for its intended use. It is enough to bury it in the ground to a depth that prevents water flows from entering the ground during rains and watering from the side of the lid, since it is still not completely airtight. It is enough to bury to the level of half the jar. The indicator of the turned-on state of the repeller is not provided in the circuit to prevent unnecessary expenditure of energy, since when the repeller makes a sound, it can be heard even at a considerable distance from it.

Prevention on site

It often happens that somewhere not far from the site there are mounds dug up by moles. There are no such earthen piles on the site itself, but work is planned to improve the fertility of the land - a compost heap or manure pit is being prepared, mulching with a thick layer of freshly cut grass is being planned. In this case, you can be sure that blind diggers will come to hunt for worms, which will certainly appear under heaps of organic fertilizer.

There is only one way to protect yourself from their invasion, where there are no underground passages yet: to fence the perimeter of the site with a protective barrier that will either scare away or prevent them from digging a tunnel.

The most reliable barrier is considered to be one made of fine-mesh thick plastic or metal mesh, sheets of slate, roofing felt, or linoleum. All materials must be durable, able to withstand the powerful claws of the mole's front paws. You will have to dig the selected material to a depth of at least 50 cm. In this case, the upper edge of the fence should protrude 40 cm above the ground. Although it is believed that moles do not walk on the ground, it is known for sure that these animals can come to the surface and move over short distances.

What are moles afraid of?

When searching for food, these insectivores rely on information they receive through their sense of smell and hearing. They do not like strong odors, such as the stench of rotten fish, the smell of valerian, the stench of various chemicals such as white alcohol or carbide. Loud noise and vibration of the soil are also sources of anxiety for moles.

What plants can scare away

Plants whose roots emit a sharp, spicy odor—garlic, onions, daffodils, marigolds, castor beans—can scare off moles. Animals do not climb into a flower bed where hazel grouse grow along the edges, many sources on the Internet write about this. But it should be borne in mind that this barrier will be temporary, as long as plants with an odor difficult for moles are in the ground. At the same time, some individuals know how to deal with unpleasantly smelling plants: they simply push them out of the ground or go around a little deeper than the roots of the plant go down.

How to catch a mole

The mole is especially active in the early morning. Then you can catch it in a pre-dug jar or bucket. Just make sure that after installing the trap there is no draft. The Mole, like a true master, will seal this move. He is very smart and careful.

You can buy a trap that is shaped like a pipe with two lids. Cheap models have a small diameter and a smooth surface inside, from which the mole cannot push off with its paws, so it is reluctant to go into it. Therefore they are ineffective. Traps with a rough inner surface are more suitable for catching moles. But their price is higher.

A mole can be caught by picking it up with a shovel while it is moving near the surface. But catching is only half the battle. Moles have very strong paws and spiny claws. Therefore, it is very difficult to hold them with your hands, except for small ones, who sometimes, due to inexperience, go for a walk in the fresh air. An adult can scratch and even bite.

Sometimes moles are caught with traps or special mole traps. They are installed in pairs in each move, directing the wire in different directions.

Moles can be destroyed with special electric mole cutters. But animals do not deserve to be treated so cruelly. It is more humane to scare them away from your site or block the path to it.

Setting up a rodent repeller

If all radio components are in working order and installation is error-free, the mole repeller will work immediately. If desired, you can change the time parameters of the emitted sound signal. The frequency will increase as resistor R1 or capacitor C1 decreases. If there is a desire to change the frequency during operation of the mole repeller, then resistor R1 can be replaced with two series-connected, permanent and trimming resistors with a nominal value of 75 kOhm. When changing the frequency of the clock generator, it is necessary that it remains in the range from 300 to 900 Hz, since these are the sound frequencies that most effectively drive away rodents.

When changing the frequency of the generator, it is necessary to take into account that the repetition period of sound signals will also change proportionally. For example, if the frequency is set twice as low - 250 Hz, then the time between sound signals and the duration of the signal will also become twice as long, 64 seconds and 4 seconds, respectively. So there is an opportunity to experiment here. If desired, you can restore the previous timing parameters by transferring the diode anode from pin 3 of DD2 to pin 14.

The duration of the sound signal and the period of its repetition can be easily changed. If you remove the diode from pin 15 of DD2, then the duration of the sound signal will be 4 seconds without changing the repetition period of 32 seconds, and if you add an additional diode from pin 14 of DD2 to pin 12 of DD1.3, then the sound signal will last 1 second.

Mole repellers

Repellers are currently recognized as the most effective means of helping to get rid of moles and mole rats. They do not take up much space, are not conspicuous, and therefore do not spoil the landscape of the garden plot. Many gardeners have experienced the usefulness of these devices.

Progress does not stand still in this area. New, more improved models of repellers are being put on the shelves. They differ not only in shape, size and color, but also in price. Therefore, any gardener can purchase such a device and forever forget about the damaged lawn, eaten carrots and dug up flower beds with broken, once beautiful flowers.

Metal mesh against moles

However, you don’t have to go to the store for such salvation. If you have a strong desire and a little free time, you can make a mole repeller with your own hands.

It will be useful to read:

Methods of combating the larvae of the May beetle Basic description of the pest May beetles, also known as May beetles, are insects of the order Coleoptera, family...

Types of mole repellers

The whole variety of repellers is combined into three main groups:

Mechanical - in the center of such devices there is a round, flattened mechanism, which by its rotation creates vibrations that are unpleasant for the animals, scaring them away.
Biological - substances, mainly aromatic oils, placed in capsules. Their strong smell causes discomfort to moles and mole rats, forcing them to run as far away from the area as possible. Some odorous plants also act as biological repellents.
Ultrasonic – devices that create vibration due to a built-in emitter.

The mechanism of action of the first and last types of repellers is based on the influence of sound vibrations on the well-developed hearing of a mole or mole rat. They perceive these unfamiliar sounds as a signal of nearby danger and flee.

An ultrasonic mole repeller differs from a mechanical one in one important detail: its vibrations are completely inaudible to the human ear. Plus it's very easy to use. Among all types of repellers of this type, it is especially worth noting solar-powered mole repellers

They are a structure in the form of a pin with a cap that is stuck into the ground. On the cap there is a solar battery that powers the resonant device. Unlike conventional ultrasonic repellers, these do not require battery replacement. You can install it in a place where moles and mole rats are raiding and never think about it again. Thus, a very convenient and economical device is obtained.

Among all types of repellers of this type, solar-powered mole repellers are especially worth noting. They are a structure in the form of a pin with a cap that is stuck into the ground. On the cap there is a solar battery that powers the resonant device. Unlike conventional ultrasonic repellers, these do not require battery replacement. You can install it in a place where moles and mole rats are raiding and never think about it again. Thus, the result is a very convenient and economical device.

The biological type of repeller makes the life of moles in the area unbearable due to the strong and pungent odor for their sensitive nose. They also have no choice but to go away.

But if you don’t want to spend money on store-bought equipment, you can make a mole repeller with your own hands from improvised materials.

Basic methods of struggle

To get rid of moles on your property, it is not enough to fill up their holes or catch a few furry pests. Some farmers use harsh methods to quickly drive away “diggers” from the garden. But most often, summer residents choose humane methods of protecting their garden plots.

Experienced farmers advise not to expel moles from garden beds too early, since in the spring the animals destroy the larvae of pests that overwinter in the soil and weed seeds. In this case, the animals help the farmer. He himself removes everything unnecessary on the soil surface.

It is best to start fighting moles in your summer cottage shortly before planting cultivated plants. Many farmers know that the most effective way to expel underground pests is a combination of folk remedies and trapping devices created using modern technologies.

Repelling moles

You can get rid of moles in your summer cottage once and for all if you know what causes them fear and use it against the animals. Many farmers choose to scare away animals with homemade devices, combined with natural aromatic products.

Such innovative devices are widely used in summer cottages. They come in two types: stationary and portable. Most often used: RemiLing, Sweeney's.

The most common model is a rod that is immersed 20–25 cm into the ground. Why does such a simple device effectively protect the site? The unit emits ultrasound, which expels underground animals from the territory.

Peg and jar

This is the simplest device available to every summer resident. To do it, you need:

strengthen a dense core in the soil;
Place a metal can on the top end of the peg.

The sharp sounds of tins rattling in the wind are not liked by the “underground blind.” They leave the area that has such a strong irritating factor.

Large plastic bottles

To make a repeller, you will need a small segment of a water pipe with an internal cavity. A plastic bottle is placed on such a rod and rotates under the influence of the wind, creating noise on the surface and underground. Moles cannot tolerate sharp sounds and leave.

Homemade and purchased propellers

Such turntables-vanes are often used at dachas. Many farmers use these humane means to expel moles, as they make it possible to leave the animals alive. Pests are afraid of the rattling sounds made by pebbles from a tin can placed on the propeller pin. The vibrating device itself causes panic in animals.

You can make repellers yourself or buy ready-made ones. Industrially produced propellers have instructions describing operation and rules of use.

Homemade electronic repellers

To free a site from moles, devices created by gardeners and gardeners are often used. Such devices run on electricity and are used by farmers who avoid poisoning animals.

How to make an electronic repeller yourself? The work sequence is as follows:

find at home or buy in a store a small electronic part that makes sharp sounds (crackling, ringing);
adapt it to run on batteries;
place the part inside a metal pipe;
dig the device into the ground, covering it with cloth and half a plastic bottle on top to protect it from dampness.

Homemade electronic repellers are often installed in greenhouses, near large flower beds. They do not require large expenditures, are convenient and functional.

Pest lifestyle

Before you start fighting moles, it is important to familiarize yourself with the life characteristics of the pest. It is known that moles live in families

Therefore, if one individual was discovered in the garden of a private house, garden or dacha, then there is no need to have any illusions. In the best case, several relatives live with it, and in the worst case, 2-3 families.

Animals make extensive underground passages, which, according to their purpose, are divided into two types:

Moves to search for prey. They are located in the fertile layers of the earth, since this is where the food of moles lives - earthworms and insect larvae. A voracious animal cannot exist for a long time without food, a maximum of 10-15 hours.
Wintering passages for animals. They are located deep underground and protect animals from bad weather. Moles do not hibernate, so they need a place protected from the cold to survive the long winter.

Moles are predators; their food is only of animal origin. They do not eat root vegetables, as some gardeners believe. And if remains of plant fibers can be found in their stomachs, then they get there by accident.

Moles feed on invertebrates, mainly earthworms. In addition, they even bring certain benefits by eating woodlice, slugs, click beetle larvae, caterpillars and mole crickets. The soil in areas where moles live is usually loose, soft and moist. Although they damage the root system of plants, they do so unintentionally.

In search of food, animals dig new passages. In conditions of food shortage, moles are capable of attacking frogs, small vertebrates and even rats. Animals are in great need of water, so they settle near water bodies. Moles have developed intelligence and are able to adapt to different circumstances.

Animals are very dexterous and strong. Due to constant exposure to darkness, the organ of vision of moles has atrophied during evolution, since they practically do not need it and even get in the way. If the eyes were preserved in their usual form, then earth would always fall into them. Animals compensate for poor vision with acute hearing and sense of smell.

Types of mole traps

There are several types of traps and mole traps that have the general purpose of catching a mole. They differ in the way they are installed and operated. Let's take a closer look at popular models.

Ever seen a live mole?

Never happened

Wire

A wire trap is the simplest and most inexpensive device. It is made in the form of an elongated spring that has a loop, a guard, and a pressing foot.

The compressed spring is held by a guard, which prevents the animal from moving.

Wire mole trap.

When the pest tries to push it, the spring will open and the paw will be pressed against the loop. This is fraught with serious consequences for the mole, ranging from bleeding to complete and rapid death.

The price for these traps varies between 50 – 100 rubles. Efficiency increases when two traps are present at the same time. The death of the mole in this case is inevitable.

Trap installation:

The stern passage is opened.
Set the trap so that the walls of the passage close tightly with the loops.
Cover the hole with thick cloth.

Spring mole trap: installation.

When installing two devices, the hinges should be directed in different directions to avoid contact. If there is a stopper, it should rest against the bottom. In its absence, it is appropriate to use a nail, which is inserted into a spring and rests against the walls.

You can make this device yourself. However, the store price is quite cheap. It will not be difficult for any consumer to purchase such a product.

The result usually exceeds all expectations. Often within two days you can catch the animal. If this does not happen, then move the trap to another hole. You will have to make a maximum of 3 rearrangements to catch the animal.

The advantages include low price and durability. Disadvantage: complicated installation. Although many gardeners note that this is the best option.

Masher

Mole crusher.

It is possible to use mousetraps or rat traps in the form of a crusher. They are inexpensive and sold in many stores. The crusher differs from the previous version:

The trigger is triggered by tension (not push). They modify it themselves to take into account the specifics of the pest’s movement;
The pressing bracket should not catch on the fabric or arch when repositioning.

When the first problem occurs, the loop securing the guard is filed down. The guard will work when the mole removes the noose. Earthworms are planted on it as bait.

To avoid getting caught in the arch, the placement area is covered with a pan or bucket. There is enough space above the trap to trigger it. It is also better to install 2 devices.

Tunnel trap

Tunnel trap for mole.

There are some disadvantages compared to the previous two. This is a high price. The cost reaches 400 rubles. But the trap can replace 2 wire models. It is also worth paying attention to the complex installation of the device.

The advantage is that it is not covered. By the raised spring, you can understand that the animal has fallen into a trap.

Harpoon trap

Harpoon trap.

Passing under the trap, the pest pushes the guard, which interferes with it. As a result, a powerful spring drives the spokes, which pierce the mole. Advantages: easy installation and visibility of the device operation.

The cost is quite high. On average - 1000 rubles. Making such a device yourself is difficult. This method is also completely inhumane. Many people won't want to use it for this reason.

Trap - scissors

When triggered, the device squeezes the sides of the animal. Death occurs very quickly from injuries and hemorrhage. The price is at the level of the harpoon variety. Among the domestic mole traps stands Fr.

Installation method:

The scissors are pulled apart.
Trap scissors.
Insert the spacer.
Install the claws.
Cover with a bucket.
When it hits the strut, the animal climbs up. The spacer lowers and the claws kill the pest.

Such devices are sold in online stores and hardware departments.

Expensive models and scares

Solar powered repeller.

Original models with a complex design are called expensive and high-quality:

SuperCatVoleTrap – price about 1500 rubles. The kit is equipped with a special device that gets into the hole very easily;
Skat 63 – it is based on 2 pairs of scissors. Price – 1500 rubles;
Talpirid Mole Trap is a complex trap, but easy to install. The mechanism resembles scissors.

Various ultrasonic repellers are installed around the perimeter of the site and launched. They must be tuned to the desired frequency and work throughout the entire garden or meadow. They have a negative effect on rats and mice. But you should be careful, because pets and livestock are sensitive to ultrasound.

Repellers have a good effect. However, traps are more reliable.

Calling the special services is the most expensive option. The price starts from 2000 rubles. The service workers handle the entire process themselves. Effective, fast, and most importantly, does not require any effort. But it's expensive.

Lures

Unfortunately, bait will not help in the fight against moles. They are indifferent to granules with poison. They are almost impossible to poison.

The only option is to cut the earthworm into pieces in order to fill it with poison. The movement of dying worms can attract pests. By eating them, the moles will die.

Moles are difficult to poison.

How to get rid of moles in the country: old ways

Folk method - mole hunting with a shovel

• Move gradually along the furrow of the mole path: you need to move in small steps, thoroughly crushing the growing grass and soil, leveling the ground. Although these animals have, to put it mildly, no vision, they have an excellent sense of smell and acute hearing, for this reason sudden movements and excess noise can frighten them - the moles will descend to the lower horizons of their home, and it will be problematic to extract them from there;

• It is necessary to position yourself with a hammer and shovels as close as possible to the place of work where the animals hunt (visible by fresh furrows). Periodically it is necessary to inspect the territory of your dacha, so you can discover the most recent “excavations”. These animals usually feed in the morning, at noon and in the evening;

• If you find that previously dug furrows begin to lengthen, or new ones have appeared, it means that there is a mole at the very edge of the move

Carefully creep up to this area and quickly and firmly stick a shovel into the ground behind the area where the animal is supposed to be working to prevent it from escaping. Another shovel must be stuck into the soil at the end of the move, directly in front of the mole

The mole will either fall under a shovel and die immediately, or you can kill it with a hammer;

• This “hunt” will need to be repeated more than once, since mole families are very large and each animal needs to be caught separately.

Repellent. There are many facts that moles are frightened by various sounds, afraid of various “noisemakers” (plastic bottles in the wind, rattles, etc.), but it has been proven that these animals sometimes do not react to this at all. They say that if you make a lot of noise, you can drive them out with loud and harsh sounds. But it’s hard to imagine a gardener running around the dacha for days on end, blowing a whistle, banging a pot lid on a bucket, etc.

It is believed that it is not difficult to get rid of moles in the countryside using odorous substances, for example, rotting food, rotten herring - weapons with a strong and unpleasant aroma. Are you ready to turn your favorite dacha into an ordinary landfill?

Traps. There are several designs of traps, these are small and cheap products in the form of a pipe with two self-closing doors, but most often the mole simply walks around, fearing a new and unknown object in its territory.

There are also more expensive traps for moles, they are designed specifically for the physiology and behavior of the mole - the diameter that is familiar to it, the internal rough surface, they are a little more effective.

Mole traps. A cruel, but very effective method if the “correct” trap is used. It is placed in the burrow shaft and lightly sprinkled with soil. The mole, passing in this place, touches the guard and the whole job is done. But such traps often do not work or may simply react to crumbling soil.

Use of mole-cutters. When patience runs out due to the activities of an independent “landscape designer” who has recently settled on your site, then use harsh means.

Many models of mole killers are made, but in most cases these are homemade products that kill moles as the mole passes through a certain area. Electrical devices are often used, and there are many positive reviews about them.

Planting crops that repel moles. Plants such as beans, hemp and black beans can rid a gardener of moles, but this method does not always work.

Useful links:

A radical and powerful method to get rid of moles

Electronic mole repellers in some cases cannot cope with moles, which can adapt to such devices and not notice their actions.
Then a radical method will help you, which is more powerful than all known means. It will definitely help you get rid of moles, while the animals will remain safe and sound and will simply leave your garden. Blogger Lawyer Egorov tried many standard methods of fighting moles and, being disappointed in their effectiveness, came up with his own method. Traps, poisons and snares are cruel methods. Exhaust fumes and other exotic innovations ruin the lawn. Animals have adapted to electronic repellers. Every year, when the water in the canal dries up, a family of moles comes to the author of the idea in the garden. By inserting a nozzle into a hole in the ground and turning on the device for 10 minutes, he forces annoying animals to leave their shelter and run outside the garden. You can increase the power of the repeller by pouring water into the hole, then its effect will be effective over a larger area.

How long is the operating time of an ultrasonic repeller? As experience shows, no more than three seasons. You have to buy a new one. And the deep vibrator, in comparison with them, is eternal. In addition, it will be useful for its intended purpose. The cost of the deep vibrator turned out to be cheaper than the cost of all the repellers that had to be used for several years.

If you are only prepared for such humane methods, then chances are you have a pet. There is an article about a three-room apartment for hamsters.

Repeller made from plastic bottles

If the owners decide to make a repellent device themselves, then it is advisable to use ready-made diagrams that describe such designs in detail. So how to make a grotto and rodent repeller with your own hands?

First you need to take empty plastic bottles, several sticks or hollow tubes about one and a half meters long. Then you need to take a sharp knife or blade and cut holes in the body of the plastic bottles so that after the cuts you can pull out the plastic blades. They are pulled out and bent in different directions to let more air into the bottle. Then you need to drill a hole in the bottom. A pin or hollow tube will be inserted into this hole. Thus, according to this scheme, we will get a pin with a bottle attached, which looks like a feeder. The lower part of the pin plunges 30 centimeters into the ground.

Visually, such a repeller is not very aesthetic, so it can be painted in bright colors. Of course, this will not improve efficiency. This mole repeller scheme is the simplest.

A more powerful analogue will not be a feeder, but a propeller. The propeller will rotate like a windmill under the influence of the wind. When placing 3-4 plastic bottles on it, it will make much more noise, and moles will not come into your area.

You need to make 2-3 holes in the walls of the bottle and insert light, wide plastic parts into them to make a primitive propeller. Then make a hole in the bottle cap with a nail and attach it to the pin. The mechanism of action is the same as in the first case.

Such repellers operate on the principle of a wind generator. In the design, air currents create a lot of noise, which will transmit vibration vibrations into the ground through a hollow tube or pin.

Who fumbles with electricity - kill the moles

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Branch

Burn patterns onto the board. Beautiful. And I'm burning out)))

What if this transformer is connected to two pins and placed into the ground, and the ground is all saturated with water, for example in the spring after the snow melts.

I don’t understand the physics of electric currents, but perhaps they should occur inside the flooded soil?

Will this kill moles or not?

Denis199rus

bodydoctor

CLUBARMADA

Branch

I confirm the story with the propellers. Works. But it’s a long time - the whole season. I did this 10 years ago when I laid the lawn for the first time. They rummaged through everything for me the next year. He placed the helicopters in a row at intervals of 5 meters and began to retreat to the sides from the center of the area. Thus, once a week he carried helicopters from the center to the sides of the site’s borders. This took the entire summer season. The moles are gone. They were gone for 7-8 years. This was on a plot of 30 acres of lawn. He placed about 25 helicopters on poles made of brass tubes. The helicopters were made of plastic 4 mm thick. I ordered laser cutting from a printing house. 4 helicopters were made from an A4 sheet of plastic. I bent the blades by heating them a little with a lighter. And most importantly: The central hole for mounting on the pole must be made not in the center, but with an offset from the center axis - so that an eccentric is created and during rotation, misalignment = vibration and runout on the axis. So that vibration would be transmitted through the pole to the ground. I thought of it myself and it helped!

Now I have a clean lawn of 1.5 hectares))), not counting other landscaping, buildings and a garden with a vegetable garden.

Last season, 2022, there were hordes of moles. Believe me, there are hordes.

I need to kill them quickly somehow. I can’t stand a whole season of helicopters. I’m thinking of some way with electricity.

I’m already going to have a heart attack, I can feel how the snow will melt in the spring))) There will be something like this on my ideal lawns - it’s just an ass ((((

Let's, who is not a chemist (like me), but a physicist, theorize about methods of killing with electricity?

Catch a mole, torture it with electricity and release it so that you can pass it on to your own people - don’t suggest it)))) consider that you’ve already tried it - it didn’t help

Branch

Fact And beer cans work

But it all looks like a garbage dump))))

Ivan186

Branch

Shit (((Mountains, I tried different manufacturers. It’s all a scam for money. The moles dig right under them so that the buzzing ones fall on their sides and continue to lie on the ground and hum, and the moles continue to dig without paying any attention to them

Well, even if they worked on 1.5 hectares, you’d need to supply 100 of them

Anyway, on topic:

I connected this burning transformer to a 2.5 meter long board. There are two screws screwed in at the edges, and wires behind them with crocodile clips +/- Wet it generously with water and soda. An arc chain is formed. If you touch the wet board with your hands while turning it on, it will kill you.