How to prepare a chicken coop for wintering: lighting, insulation, remodeling

Insulating the roof of a chicken coop

When planning a construction, it is recommended to think about the attic and make a structure with a reliable black ceiling.
Subsequently, bedding and feed material can be stored there. In relation to the finished structure, almost the same materials are used (to insulate the roof, additional waterproofing and vapor barrier are used), only the fastening methods change:

1. Vapor barrier (vapor barrier films, membranes) is the protection of insulation from moisture that is produced inside the building.
2. Waterproofing (roofing felt) serves the same purposes, but is laid outside to protect the insulation from precipitation and condensation formed due to temperature changes.

Step-by-step instructions for insulating a chicken coop

Based on cost, the most convenient type of insulation is polystyrene foam and mineral wool. Before starting insulation, the following tools are required:

• electric drill;
• roulette;
• screwdriver;
• level;
• assembly knife for cutting foam plastic;
• construction stapler;
• hacksaw.

Next, the material is calculated for the entire room. List of materials:

• timber for making a frame (4/4cm);
• sheets of polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam;
• self-tapping screws (for installation in wooden walls), dowels (for hard surfaces);
• mineral or basalt wool;
• vapor barrier film;
• any available panel material (plasterboard, plywood, reinforcing mesh).

The walls are insulated first. The procedure is as follows:

1. Along the entire surface of the walls, timber is vertically reinforced at a distance of 60 cm (the width of the insulation). To do this, a beam of the required length is mounted with fasteners (screws, dowels) to the wall, thereby creating a frame for laying insulating material.
2. The vapor barrier is fixed with the rough side to the wall. The film is secured with double-sided tape or a construction stapler.
3. The next thing to install is insulation. This can be a sheet of foam plastic, mineral wool, or both, depending on the thickness of the walls and climatic conditions. The material is installed on top of the film and tightly joined to the beam. The foam is fastened using umbrella dowels (large diameter cap).
4. The final stage is to cover the foam sheet with panels or attach a reinforced mesh. Next, the walls are plastered with cement mortar.

To insulate the roof from the inside, use the same sequence of actions as for the walls. Before the cold weather begins, it is necessary to check the condition of the roof to prevent it from leaking. After the work has been done to insulate the room, the outside walls can be insulated in the same way, but plastered fairly well.

Insulation quality control

It is impossible to visually assess the quality of insulation, because possible imperfections are located inside. Usually for these purposes they resort to a thermal imager, but in the case of a chicken coop this is not advisable. Therefore, quality control is carried out at the stages of material selection and proper installation. Possible errors may lead to the following:

• if the material is chosen incorrectly, cracks appear due to shrinkage;
• If the installation rules are not followed, the vapor barrier seal is damaged, and the lack of ventilation leads to the walls getting wet and freezing.

To be sure of the quality of the purchased material, you need to pay attention to the following points:

• proven, well-known brand of the manufacturer;
• selection of material with suitable characteristics;
• product integrity.

High-quality installation of insulation will guarantee their long-lasting service and preservation of heat in the room throughout the winter.

What symptoms indicate that a chicken cannot lay an egg? More details about this, as well as what to do in this case, are written here.

How to properly raise Linda geese at home? We talked about this in our article.

Cost of insulation

Depending on the size and manufacturer, the price of packaging varies:

1. Foam plastic - from 2000-2500 rub.
2. Mineral wool from 400-1000 rub.
3. Basalt wool from 400-1200 rub.
4. Foil penofol - from 300-1700 rub.
5. Waterproofing – from 250–400 rub.
6. Penoplex - from 100-400 rub.
7. Vapor barrier - from 200-2000 rub.

Insulating a chicken coop is a necessary measure for wintering chickens, which guarantees the preservation of livestock and egg production for the entire period. Properly organized insulation allows you to create optimal conditions for birds at different times of the year.

Heating system installation

Most modern poultry farmers prefer electric heaters as the safest and most affordable. You can install them yourself without any special skills. They can heat a room of any size.

Infrared lamp

Infrared lamps (IR lamps) are highly efficient, converting energy into heat. They do not pollute the air in the chicken coop; after switching on, they quickly warm up the area they are aimed at.

The disadvantages of lamps include their high cost and short operating period.

For additional heating of a thoroughly insulated chicken coop with an area of ​​30 square meters. m and a ceiling height of 200–240 cm, it is enough to install 2 IR lamps, each with a power of 250 W. Lamps are suspended from the ceiling, placing them in those areas of the house where maximum heat is required (for example, above nests, perches or a cage with chickens).

IR lamps should be equipped with a thermostat or dimmer (power regulator) in order to avoid overheating of the room.

Important! When installing an IR lamp, you must remember that it itself gets very hot. It is hung from the wooden ceiling not close to it, but at a distance of 30–50 cm. Or the attachment point is protected with asbestos plate. It is better to take ceramic lamp sockets.

Heater

An IR heater is mounted like an IR lamp (Cozy Warmth, Good Warmth). Its heating area is larger than that of a lamp. It is more reliably protected from overheating. Only ceiling models should be installed in the poultry house so that chickens do not have the opportunity to come into contact with the unit. The cost of an IR heater starts from 2700 rubles.

A popular way to heat a chicken coop is to install a household fan heater or heat gun inside. Not the most economical option, spending up to 1 kW of electricity per hour, but suitable for quickly warming up a room. The fan built into the heater quickly moves air around the room, mixing cold and warm layers. The fan heater has the ability to dry the air.

The unit is installed on the floor or attached to the wall so as to prevent birds from accessing the heater. It is necessary to regularly clean it from dust and feathers, which often accumulate inside the unit.

Calculation of chicken coop parameters

You can very easily calculate the size of the chicken coop using a simple formula: one square meter for four chickens. In addition, you need to think about the foundation for the bird’s future home.

The most important thing for the foundation of a chicken coop is strength. As a rule, the foundation is made of ordinary concrete. There are several reasons for this:

1. Preventing boards from rotting. If they are isolated from the destructive effects of wet soil, then the building itself will be much stronger and more durable.
2. Preventing Undermining. It's no secret that foxes and other wild animals, and often domestic dogs, are not averse to eating chicken. Once they hit the concrete base, they won't be able to dig a hole into the coop and cause you any damage.

If you don't want to make a concrete foundation, then just carefully line the entire bottom of the coop with iron sheets.

Important hygiene details in winter

Effective keeping of chickens in winter is possible if certain conditions are met:

1. To maintain egg production at a high level, birds need a balanced diet, access to fresh water and vitamins.
2. She needs daily walking. The duration of the walks depends on weather conditions.
3. Raising healthy livestock is impossible without whitewashing walls, disinfecting dishes, drinking bowls, perches and nests.
4. Chickens need ash. It will help prevent the massive spread of insects living in the feathers.
5. Sand placed in the chicken coop will improve the processing of solid feed.
6. To hatch high-quality eggs, chickens need mineral supplements, so they are given crushed eggshells.

Insulating the chicken coop

Our conditions are such that if you don’t take care of the question of how to properly insulate the chicken coop for the coming winter, the bird will simply die from hypothermia. How to do this?

First of all, during construction, a vestibule must be built in front of the entrance to the chicken coop. This will stop the flow of icy air directly into the room. Once past the vestibule, he will have time to warm up at least a little.

To retain more heat in the chicken coop, you need to make a vestibule. Click to enlarge.

They are good because they can be regularly replaced with new ones, which means the chicken coop will always be clean. It is customary to line the inside of the roof and walls with felt.

During particularly frosty times of the year, care should be taken to connect heating appliances. They can be different - both incandescent lamps and air heaters. The most important thing is that the heating devices cannot be reached by the chickens.

If desired, you can find special films or heating panels made of metal on the market or in a store. They will release heat into the room using infrared radiation.

This method of heating is convenient and economical, since with its help your birds will be able to survive even the most severe cold without any losses, while the energy consumption will not increase, which means it will not hit your pocket.

It is worth approaching this matter with the utmost care, because it is the work you do that will determine how the birds will feel and how well they will lay eggs.

Some tips

Following our advice, your chicken coop will be a reliable home for birds. Click to enlarge.

So, in the chicken coop it is necessary to equip a convenient place where the chicken can safely lay eggs. To do this, you need to install a box filled with sawdust in a secluded corner.

Also, the bird's home requires constant cleaning, so during construction it is best to immediately take this circumstance into account and make the floor slightly inclined towards the door.

Fences for bird walks should be dug into the ground. This is done for greater reliability and to ensure that predators cannot get to the chickens.

You should not purchase a large mesh barrier mesh, since in this case the chickens may escape from the enclosure.

We looked at how to build and insulate a chicken coop. As you can see, everyone can do this.

Heaters

In winter, for insulation, simply plug the plug into the socket.

Heating - diesel fuel furnaces. These models do not smoke and are fireproof. For example, to heat a room of 100 m2, you will need a stove with a 2.5 liter storage tank. — One run is enough for 12 hours at -20 ° C.

Heaters are also popular - they run on solid fuel and can even heat several rooms at the same time. Electric heaters are more often used, but they and all electrical wiring must be installed out of the reach of birds - in a special fence or in a niche in the floor.

An economical heating option for winter and autumn is an infrared heater with temperature control, which allows you to save energy. Screen mesh lamps are the easiest way. The power of the light bulbs is adapted to the room.

Best answers

Galina M:

There is no need for a refrigerator if you can’t insulate the entire shed, insulate at least part of it. In villages, chickens winter normally, but only insulated sheds and I agree you can buy an infrared lamp (special for farm animals).

keep it at home

Vladimir:

Anyway, it will be warmer in the refrigerator

Alena Bykova:

Try insulating the shed

Alex U:

can the shed be insulated? lay down straws... cover the walls with something suitable...

Ali Baba:

It’s better if it’s new and already cut up - so that the pieces don’t freeze and each leg is in a separate bag)))))))

rrr:

in a normal barn chickens never freeze

Kotyara:

Insulate the shed with polystyrene foam and screw in a blue lamp... they will be warmer))))))))

Andrey ▒▒▒▒▒▒▒:

If there is no heating, then insulation is useless. Where does the heat come from? 4 frozen chickens will not heat the room. Either provide some heat, or bring chickens into the house.

Sergey Igorevich:

Insulate the barn and put up perches for the chickens; it’s cold on the ground, they need something to sit on...

Olga:

weirdos

Yuri:

Buy them a rooster, it will quickly warm them up)))

Lisa Halanay:

Instead of laying straws in the barn, you should throw a haystack there - the chickens will not freeze in the hay. And why a refrigerator? Make a small pen in your house and let them live until spring. In the warmth and light, even artificial light, chickens lay eggs well in winter.

Doberman Crystal:

I now have three elite chickens imported from China sitting in my apartment in a large exhibition dog cage. If the bird is cold, be sure to bring it somewhere warm; no amount of straw or hay will help. For a couple of months you will live with cheerful cackling)))) For domestic chickens, the favorable winter temperature is +10 degrees. Below it is already dangerous.

How to insulate windows and doors with your own hands

Heat leaks out of the coop due to drafts and through poorly fitted doors and windows. In order not to freeze chickens, before the cold weather, work is carried out to seal cracks and restore the integrity of door and window frames.

During construction, a double frame is provided for the window. It is better to make the opening itself on the south or east side to increase the flow of light. When cold weather sets in, a sheet of dense polyethylene is attached to the frame, filling the cracks with foam rubber or felt.

The door frame is insulated around the perimeter with a tape of felt or thick fabric, and the threshold is raised so that it does not blow across the floor. The door is covered on both sides with insulation - an old carpet, rug, felt.





What to build from

You can build a chicken coop inexpensively from cinder block or foam concrete. If there is a place nearby where there is clay, you can remove the walls using adobe technology (mud or dried bricks).

If you need a budget warm chicken coop, you can make it like a dugout. The walls can be raised half a meter above the level; in the south, well-insulated windows with double or triple glass can be made. It is good to insulate the piece that protrudes above the ground and the roof. For warmth, all walls except the southern one can be covered with earth. If there is still snow on top, it will be quite warm.

Those who are seriously planning to raise poultry should think about building a chicken coop made of foam concrete: it is light and warm

Another perhaps most popular and economical option is a do-it-yourself frame chicken coop. Since the rooms are usually small, the timber for the frame needs a small cross-section and little of it is required. The frame can be sheathed with boards, plywood, OSB and other similar materials. Place insulation between the posts and sew up the other side. To prevent mice from settling in the insulation, people came up with the idea of ​​covering the insulation on both sides with a metal mesh with a fine mesh. This makes construction somewhat more expensive, but fighting mice is more expensive. It turns out to be a warm chicken coop and the thickness of the insulation depends on the region. You can focus on recommendations for the construction of frame houses.

A chicken coop made of logs or thick timber can do without insulation in the middle zone. Only the caulking seams need to be sewn up with slats. Not so much from drafts, but from chickens: so as not to pull the tow or moss.

Answers from experts

Vera Semyonova:

You think about insulation, but don’t think about all sorts of rats and ferrets. And Isovere this rubbish calmly makes nests. If it’s polystyrene foam, not the one that crumbles, but polystyrene foam. And it would be nice to use small chain-link to make a straight box. Why am I writing this because we lost both young chickens and quails, they were hanging on the wall in cages.

matilda:

This is youth, this is what I understand. her chickens care more than dances. Well done

Alexey Kochetkov:

isover :), and the door too, and film.

Lydia S.:

It depends on what kind of winter you have. We had brick walls with adobe in one barn, and brick and cement walls in the other. In one half there were cattle (two cows), and in the other, through a wicker net, there were chickens. And nothing, everything was ok. When it was very cold, they turned on the red lamps. But the lowest temperature was -25°C.

andromeda andromedovna:

Start from the floor

Liana:

Vera is right. . cover the walls and floor with metal mesh... and then lay down the plank floor... insulate the floor with 20-30 cm of sawdust... Over the winter, a ferret can suppress all the chickens and rats for nothing... I can ferret both a duck and a young goose... I will have to insulate the door and cracks.. T* in winter indoors d.b. not lower than +10* ..and lighting and heating with lamps are required.. Chickens will not lay eggs without light.. Dry brooms from any grass. . one for 1 winter day—that’s an average of 5 chickens.. (vitamin supplement).. Good luck..

Spark of God (gender husband):

Did you mean to write: so that chickens lay eggs in winter? Then insulate the door, at least with “isover”, and the roof and hang a light bulb so that there is light. But the chickens will live anyway, the main thing is that there is a roost!

Natalie Mur):

In our wooden barn, which was not particularly insulated, chickens lived and wintered; in the coldest weather, they turned on the heater (stove-tram) and they definitely needed light! There were no choreas in our village.

Phil Casidi:

The decision on how to heat a shed is best made at the stage of its design and construction. But, if you are planning to insulate a building that is already in use, then you can do it in two ways: decorate the walls and roof with thermal insulation materials or install a stove. You can also combine these two methods. To insulate a barn, a clay-sawdust mixture is often used, applied to walls previously lined with shingles (willow twigs can be used instead). It is attached at an angle of 45 degrees, starting from the corner of the wall. The clay is mixed with water and sawdust until a creamy consistency is obtained. After this, you can begin to apply the solution with a large spatula. The layer of such plaster should be at least 3-5 centimeters. This method is considered popular and quite effective, but modern materials can also be used. Details: ogodom /uteplit-saray-obshit-postroit-obogret

Elena Nikolaeva (Shchepkova):

Polystyrene foam, roll insulation (can be foil), etc. And it shouldn’t blow from anywhere. Sawdust is better for bedding. They will also absorb excess moisture. Water in a nipple-cup drinker: less evaporation and contamination. It's quite affordable. Ceilings higher than 1.8 m are not advisable. In a well-insulated and draft-protected room, a 75-watt light bulb is sufficient to maintain an acceptable temperature.

Vladimir Bulanov:

Well, it depends where. The cold triggers bend quickly.

Elena..-):

The chicken coop can be insulated with polystyrene foam, felt, sawdust, straw: The barn must be equipped with a vestibule at the entrance. It will serve as a barrier when winter air rushes into the room. The next step is to insulate the floor, roof and walls of the chicken coop using suitable material. In severe frosts, the chicken coop can be equipped with heating devices. The main condition is that they must be located in places inaccessible to chickens. Special panels for heating in winter are sold on the market. They are made of metal and film insulation and release heat inside the chicken coop using infrared radiation. Such heating does not require increased use of electricity, so it will not affect your costs.

Do-it-yourself natural insulation of a chicken coop

All the above efforts to organize heating of the poultry house can go to waste if the heat is not retained in the room. Therefore, it is necessary to insulate the floor, walls, ceiling, doors and windows.

To insulate the floor, peat, sawdust, small shavings or straw are used, which are covered in a continuous layer 8–10 cm thick.

Sawdust is an excellent option for floor insulation. But before that, you need to cover the floor with slaked lime to prevent the appearance of ticks and fleas. The litter itself can serve as a source of heat. How to properly organize such natural heating is shown above in the subsection “Without the use of electricity.”

Materials for the interior lining of a chicken coop can be very different: boards, plywood, plasterboard, OSB boards, lime-whitened plaster. Mineral wool or polystyrene foam are most often used as insulation - these are the most practical options.

The same technology can be used when using polystyrene foam as insulation. The joints between sheets of polystyrene foam can be sealed with polyurethane foam. Since chickens quickly peck at the foam, it is sheathed on the outside with any suitable material. When insulating walls with this material, you can do without lathing.

To do this, perform the following actions:

1. Sheets of foam plastic laid on the floor are primed and plastered (cement plaster).
2. Three days later, the foam is attached to the walls using “fungi” - fasteners with a wide plastic cap. The gaps between the sheets are sealed with polyurethane foam.
3. The polystyrene foam is again covered with plaster, then the plaster is whitened with lime.

If the construction of a chicken coop is just planned, then it is advisable to build it already insulated. Here is a well-proven insulated design option:

• inside 3 mm plywood, painted with oil paint;
• then 10 mm foam sheets;
• the next layer is made of 20 mm boards;
• The outside of the chicken coop is lined with galvanized iron.

Ceiling insulation

The ceiling is usually insulated with mineral wool or polystyrene foam. The process of laying insulation is the same as described above for walls: creating sheathing, laying vapor barrier film, laying insulation, installing finishing material (plywood, lining, OSB boards, etc.). If there are floor beams on the ceiling, then these beams can be used instead of sheathing.

Doors and windows

The windows in the chicken coop are made with double glass and cannot be opened, since they do not serve for ventilation, but only for natural light.
In winter, the window can be further insulated by covering the window opening with transparent plastic film. Doors, both large and small, for releasing birds must close tightly. They can be insulated by covering them with felt.

So, it is imperative to prepare the chicken coop for winter. Without insulation of the floor, ceiling, walls, windows and doors, proper organization of heating and ventilation, the living conditions for the chickens will be uncomfortable. At best, they will survive the cold, but you can forget about fresh eggs for the entire winter period. Therefore, it is better not to save money and equip the poultry house with everything necessary, especially since the results of this work will last for at least several years.

Natural options

Needles and sawdust

To use sawdust, pine needles or dry leaves as insulation, you will need a non-standard frame design.

Step back 5-7 cm from the wall of the chicken coop, covered with a vapor barrier film. Make a double frame from boards or plywood, which you fill with insulation. In fact, you need to make two more thin walls. The distance between them should be about 10 cm.

Then mix your chosen natural material with lime (25 to 1). Carefully compact the resulting insulation into the gap between the boards.

The result will be the following alternation of layers: chicken coop wall, vapor barrier film, frame wall, insulation and again the frame wall.

The advantages of such insulation are the environmental friendliness of the materials. And small costs for thermal insulation of the chicken coop.

Shingles

Thin small wooden plates (shingles) are evenly attached to the wall of the chicken coop in two layers.

If you are insulating a chicken coop with this material, it is important to fix the wooden plates with an overlap. So that there are no “bare” spaces left

The insulation must completely cover the wall.

When finished, mix wet clay with sawdust. Determine the proportions yourself

It is important that the mixture is thick enough and does not flow down the wall

Allow the “plaster” to swell for 4 hours. Then apply it over the shingles in a thick layer of 3-4 cm. After drying, seal the resulting gaps with a mixture of sand and clay (2 to 1).

After drying, coat the plaster with slaked lime. And cover the insulation with panels or plywood. Otherwise, the chickens will quickly peck it.

Peculiarities

This material is environmentally friendly and provides excellent insulation of the poultry house. Does not greatly reduce the area of ​​the chicken coop. In addition, it saves your wallet from serious expenses.

The disadvantage of using shingles is that such insulation is not only labor-intensive, but also takes a lot of time.

Insulation of the ceiling and roof of the chicken coop

The ceiling covering is insulated in the same way as the walls. A rough board is used as the first layer, then a waterproofing material, usually garden polyethylene, is installed. Then a sheathing is created, only the width between the bars should be slightly less than the heat insulator.

Thus, the ceiling lathing goes in increments of 0.57 - 0.58 m. The distance is reduced purposefully to be able to lay the insulation more tightly on the ceiling so that the sheets do not fall out.

Next, a heat insulator is laid - polystyrene foam or mineral wool, which is covered with a vapor barrier fabric.

Moisture-resistant plywood, OSB sheets or moisture-proof chipboard are used as the final finishing of the ceiling covering.

Insulation of chicken coop walls

Wall insulation is carried out both outside and inside. This depends on the materials that make up the house. If you plan to keep chickens all year round, then you take the construction of a chicken coop seriously. The walls are erected from solid building materials (brick, foam block). The surface of the walls must be plastered and whitened with slaked lime.

In regions with harsh climatic conditions, walls are additionally insulated with sheets of foam plastic or penoplex. Let's consider the characteristics of these materials.

Styrofoam

Polystyrene foam is polystyrene granules, foamed and compressed to the required thickness. The bulk of the material is occupied by air, which gives high thermal insulation and lightness to the product. Foam from different manufacturers has different strengths and densities.

It is worth giving preference to polystyrene foam, which contains anti-peren - an important component that protects the insulation from fire.

Used as a thermal insulation material, widely used in construction:

• for the foundation (protection from soil pressure, the influence of cold);
• for the floor (laying on the floor before the screed);
• for walls (fastening from the outside and inside);
• for the roof (installed in two ways - warm roof 70 mm sheet of foam in combination with bitumen and cold);
• for the facade (a sheet 50-60mm thick is used, glued to smooth walls with special glue, fixed, plastered).

When purchasing polystyrene foam, you should know certain nuances in advance - the higher the density (stability), the lower the thermal insulation of the material. A low degree of strength and density implies protection from mechanical damage. The latest characteristics are used for insulation of frame and other premises.

A big advantage when choosing polystyrene foam as insulation is:

• excellent thermal insulation;
• its availability;
• relatively low price;
• durability;
• does not require additional waterproofing, is resistant to moisture;
• light weight;
• ease of installation.

The disadvantages include:

• low strength of the material;
• does not allow air to pass through;
• release of gases during fire that are hazardous to health.

Penoplex

Penoplex is a new generation of thermal insulation boards. It is a dense slab with a fine-cell structure, measuring 120 by 60 cm. The basis of penoplex is also polystyrene. A special feature of penoplex is the presence of a solid L-shaped edge, which allows joining of slabs without gaps.

In addition to the same purposes as the use of polystyrene foam, it is suitable for pipe insulation. It also has some properties:

• high thermal protection;
• does not emit fumes or harmful odors;
• an extended temperature range (from -50 to +75 degrees Celsius) makes penoplex suitable for different climatic zones;
• does not absorb moisture;
• long service life (about 50 years);
• withstands sharp freezing.

The disadvantages include:

• not used without lining (plaster);
• toxic when burned;
• poor rodent barrier.

Foiled penofol

A relatively new type of insulation. It is a material characterized by high thermal protection qualities; it consists of a layer of polyethylene foam and reflective foil. The thickness of the base varies from 2 to 40 mm. Foamed polyethylene blocks direct heat transfer. It can be installed in combination with other thermal insulation materials.

If the walls of the chicken coop are thin (barn type of construction), the work on insulation will be much more. Insulation is achieved by combining different types of materials. Additional materials are mineral and basalt wool - used for thermal insulation of walls and ceilings. These insulation materials withstand temperature changes well, are hygroscopic, have fire-fighting properties and are easy to use.

Comparison of heating methods

Each method is acceptable and most suitable for specific conditions of use, and has advantages and disadvantages.

Comparison table.

By insulating the chicken coop and organizing its proper heating, a good owner will minimize the loss of egg production from chickens. It is important to choose the right way to protect the bird from the cold, to make maximum use of available, and often waste, materials.

Are chickens afraid of frost and can they winter in a greenhouse?

Important! At sub-zero levels, the productivity of chickens will drop sharply, but they will not die and will be able to survive. If the birds have been acclimatized to the surrounding conditions, then the lowest temperature they can tolerate is – +7 °C

If the birds have been acclimatized to the surrounding conditions, then the lowest temperature they can tolerate is – +7 °C.

In this case, the chicken coop should be well ventilated and free of drafts. Some summer residents use a greenhouse as a home for chickens. This is the most suitable place for birds, where they will receive enough light and be able to rummage in the ground all day.

How and with what to insulate walls

A warm barn for chickens is unthinkable without good thermal insulation of the walls. Plank walls are insulated in several layers - inside and outside. A vapor-proof layer is needed inside, and a more “breathable” material outside. If there is no additional layer of thermal insulation on the inside of the walls, you can use straw.

Outside, vertical beams are installed every 60 cm; the thickness of the beam should be 12 cm.

These beams act as lathing, which is then filled with natural insulation mixed with cement. The top layer is a facing layer and serves for decorative purposes. You should definitely think about the waterproofness of the walls, so it would be good to treat the facade with a water-repellent solution.

If you use polystyrene foam to insulate the walls, you must seal the gaps between the slabs well.

Foam boards are attached to the walls with glue, and then additionally covered with plywood sheets. If desired, the walls can be painted in any color or varnished. It is best to use polystyrene foam no thinner than 10 cm.

Insulation Ursa HeatStandard

Such mineral sound and heat insulation does not burn and is made entirely from natural raw materials. These slabs are lightweight and versatile material. It is recommended to be used in the repair and construction of almost any buildings - houses, residential apartments. This insulation was developed specifically taking into account the needs of private developers.

If the owner of the room prefers slabs, this material will suit him perfectly. This option is considered economical, so it is often used when insulating private households. It is safe for humans and does not harm the environment. Therefore, it is recommended for use in medical institutions and preschool institutions. Also well suited for insulation of food industry enterprises.

Advantages

Fully complies with GOST requirements. Convenient to use due to its light weight. Non-flammable (KM0). Resists the development of fungus and mold. The manufacturer provides a formal guarantee for a period of 50 years. Can serve as a sound insulator.

Insulation of chicken coop windows and doors

Windows and doors significantly cool the room. To prevent drafts from entering, it is necessary to insulate the openings. If the frames in the chicken coop are made of wood, then the glazing should be double.

At the same time, as additional insulation, it is recommended to apply sealant around the perimeter of the frame where the glazing bead passes. If the room is cold enough, then the window is covered from the outside with plastic film.

Don't forget about the ventilation system. The window must be equipped with a window.

The door is also insulated using thermal insulation material. Pre-treated with a protective coating against moisture. Felt is used as insulation.

A rubber seal is glued around the perimeter of the box, where the canvas adheres. As an alternative to wooden windows and doors, you can install metal-plastic structures.

Insulation of windows and doors

The main part of the heat is evaporated from the chicken coop through the cracks in the window and door openings. Therefore, all holes are sealed with foam rubber, fabric, cotton wool and other available materials.

The insulated door should fit snugly against the walls to avoid drafts

To reduce heat loss, install one small window in the room, from which there will be enough lighting. The window is located on the south or east side.

Insulation:

1. Window. The window structure is equipped with two frames. In summer, the frame is removed and a mesh is installed instead, thanks to which the room is well ventilated. In winter, the window is covered with transparent polyethylene foam and trimmed around with felt material or other insulation.
2. Doors. The door is removed from its hinges and insulated from the outside and inside. The inside of the door is upholstered with dense material; film, foam rubber and felt are used for upholstery on the outside. Such insulation will qualitatively protect the poultry house from drafts.

Was everything done correctly?

The quality of your work will become clear only in winter. When it's too late to change anything.

Therefore, it is necessary to initially ensure that all rules for attaching insulation are followed. And use only high-quality materials.

Violation of the tightness of the structure, improper fastening of the vapor barrier, errors in fastening the insulation and gaps can lead to the fact that the room will not retain heat. And the walls will get wet and even freeze.

Use only high-quality materials from reputable manufacturers. Carefully study the technical characteristics of different types of insulation.

Also avoid using damaged thermal insulation materials. For example, having gaps.

Be careful with foam. Do not use very dense, highly compressed slabs for insulation. They are easier to install. But they keep warm worse.

Insulating the chicken coop floor

Birds spend a lot of time on the floor, so floor insulation must be done carefully. Before spreading the litter, the floor is inspected and any cracks are sealed. In winter, they use a deep type of bedding (an embankment 20-30 cm high).

To date, non-replaceable fermentation deep litters have proven themselves (Biogerm Germany, Netto Plast China). The cost varies from 2000-2500 rubles per 0.5 kg (for an area of ​​10 m²). They are a powdery product made from a mixture of bacteria and other microorganisms that are harmless to animals. The principle of operation is the biochemical processing of bird droppings inside the litter. The vital activity of bacteria generates heat (25-35 degrees) playing the role of a heater, and also eliminates odors of vital activity.

A big plus of this type of litter is the absence of daily cleaning of chicken droppings. The only requirement when using a mixture of bacteria in floor materials is to loosen the trampled litter 2 times a week. This is done to allow oxygen to penetrate into the inner layers. The supply of oxygen is an important element for the proper functioning of bacteria.

It is necessary to keep the litter dry during the winter season. Wet litter disrupts the work of microorganisms and the process of heat production stops. This leads to increased humidity and decreased temperature in the chicken coop.

It is also important to know that damp litter is a source for the favorable development of helminths, chicken mites, pathological microorganisms that cause coccidiosis and diseases of the respiratory system of birds. Suitable raw materials for bedding include peat moss, sawdust, hay, and straw.

The best choice for winter floor insulation is peat. This natural material has a number of useful properties:

Suitable raw materials for bedding include moss peat, sawdust, hay, and straw. The best choice for winter floor insulation is peat. This natural material has a number of useful properties:

• absorbs moisture well;
• eliminates odors from bird waste products;
• has a soft consistency;
• retains heat (chickens' paws do not freeze);
• non-waste material (afterwards used as fertilizer).

A combination of raw materials for floor mats is possible. For example: straw (15 cm), sawdust (5-10 cm), peat moss (up to 10 cm).

It is not recommended to line the floor with sawdust only. The sawdust quickly becomes wet, and there is also a risk of birds eating the sawdust.

As the top layer of litter becomes dirty, replace it with a new one. And the bottom layer (10-15 cm) is left.

Useful tips

It is necessary to insulate the barn for chickens before the first frost, because otherwise, due to the cold, the bird may at least stop laying eggs, and in the worst case, hypothermia will lead to illness and death of the chickens.

To insulate their chicken coop, many people use peat moss.

Mossy peat

Not only is it an environmentally friendly material, it also absorbs moisture and chicken droppings, preventing odor from spreading. Peat moss is excellent as floor insulation in a winter chicken coop. Birds moving on such a moss floor will not get their paws wet, which means that the risk of disease in winter will be significantly reduced. Such peat can be reused as fertilizer for plants on the site.

In addition to peat moss, you can use a mixture of wood shavings and sawdust in a ratio of 3 to 1. It is best to use coniferous trees, since they best retain heat inside the barn, and are also a good preventative against a number of bird diseases.

A well-made and insulated chicken coop will not take much effort and financial investment. You can insulate a chicken barn yourself, without resorting to outside help. Despite the fact that the materials are quite cheap, it will take a lot of time and effort. However, the more carefully the work is carried out, the higher the quality will be.

We insulate the ceiling and roof

If a farmer breeds chickens all year round, then the building is built with an attic. This allows you to store bedding, food and much more there.

But drafts moving through the attic remove heat from the house. To retain heat, the roof must be insulated. Insulation and implementation techniques are chosen depending on the structure of the roof. As a rule, the upper part of the building is insulated with mineral wool or penoplex.

Step-by-step description of the process of insulating the roof and attic

Before you begin insulating the poultry house, it is necessary to remove the bad parts of the wooden coverings.

If the boards have areas damaged by rot or mold, these areas are replaced with new parts. Before installation, new boards are treated with an antiseptic.

Step by step description:

1. It is customary to insulate the ceiling with mineral wool. It is laid on boards, covered with a vapor barrier film on top and secured on the underside of the frame boards with a construction stapler. For additional protection, a second layer of mineral wool is laid on top using the same principle.
2. The entire structure is lined with clapboard. The material is fixed with metal clamps.
3. To protect against parasites and rodents, the material is treated with special agents and then painted.

Technology

Ceiling insulation is divided into several stages, including:

• removal of rotten old boards;
• treating new boards with an antiseptic;
• installing boards on walls;
• installation of mineral wool;
• covering the surface with a finishing coating.

Mineral wool on both sides must be covered with a vapor barrier film, this will prevent dampness and weathering. Using a staple gun, the insulation must be attached to the bottom surface of the beams. The finishing coating can be wooden lining, with its help it will be possible to form a ceiling without cracks. The lining is fixed with metal clamps. The first rail should be located near the wall, all subsequent ones are installed in the grooves of the previous ones.