Transplanting grapes to a new place: how and when is the best time to replant?

Why are grapes replanted?

The grapes are replanted in cases where, for example, the site has been redeveloped, or the bush has grown too much and has begun to claim new territories. Another reason for moving a crop to a new location may be poor growth of the shrub (perhaps it lacks light and heat, or the composition of the soil is not suitable).

Experts recommend replanting only young grapes that are no more than five years old. Bushes of one year take root most quickly on a new permanent residence. It is not advisable to touch older plants. There is a high risk that the roots will be damaged during digging and the plant will die.

Timing and optimal age

In what month to replant grapes depends on the region. The main condition for the roots to adapt well is to choose a moment when the soil is still warm like summer. In the south, the first ten days of November are considered ideal, when the vine goes into a dormant state, but the roots are still developing. In the middle zone, frosts come earlier, so the optimal period here is September-October.

Old bushes need to be replanted extremely carefully, since it is impossible to guess how much the root system has grown. When digging, there is a high risk of damaging the roots. And recovery may take several years. A vine over 7 years old is considered an adult. It is recommended to move young plants over one year old.

Read more about the rules for replanting grapes.

Selecting a location

The plot for the vineyard is prepared a season in advance. For culture, choose a well-lit, windless place. Preferably this should be on the southwest side. Although many argue that grapes are not picky about the composition of the soil, they still grow better on light loam and black soil and do not like clay soils and saline soils. The culture also feels uncomfortable on sandstones. It is also important that groundwater flows at least two meters from the ground surface.

When planning a garden, you need to take into account that grapes need a lot of free space. It should not be placed next to other growing crops, otherwise there will be competition for nutrients.

Preliminary work

They select and prepare the place where they will plant in advance.

Selecting a location

When choosing a new location, pay attention to the level of illumination - grapes will grow faster on warm soil, and a lack of sun will reduce the quantity and quality of the harvest.

An important nuance is the type of soil - clay and salt marshes are not suitable, as are places with high humidity. Sand is not able to hold moisture, and in winter it freezes quickly. The optimal solution is loamy chernozems.

Preparing the site

The place for seedlings needs to be prepared in the fall.

Pre-planting bush preparation

In order not to damage the bush, it is advisable to preserve the lump. If you didn’t save it, then in the next two years you will have to remove the inflorescences and abandon the trimmings.

Digging up a bush

The bush is dug up only after the planting hole has been prepared.

Transplant timing

Many gardeners ask the question: when is the best time to replant grapes? The answer to this question lies in the biological characteristics of the culture. The fact is that the root system of a plant is never at rest. Even in winter, when the above-ground part “sleeps,” the roots continue the growth process. But only on condition that the depths of the soil are warm and humid. This condition can occur both in spring and autumn. It turns out that grapes can be replanted when the soil warms up above 8 degrees Celsius and in the fall, when the stems enter the dormant stage and the plant begins to spend all its energy on increased root growth.

However, it is worth considering another factor – the climatic features of the region. If this is the north of the country, where the winter is frosty and long, then the ground there quickly freezes, which prevents the roots from developing. This means that if you transplant a bush in the fall, it will not have time to take root before the onset of frost, since the roots will stop growing and the plant will stop receiving nutrition. It turns out that for the northern regions, as well as the central part of Russia, it is preferable to replant grapes in the spring. There is an opinion that this should be done as early as possible, almost in March. But it is not so.

Remember, even if it has become warm, this does not mean that the soil has warmed up thoroughly. Replanting is carried out only when the soil temperature is at least 10 degrees Celsius. For the Urals this is mid-May - early June, for the Moscow region and the middle zone - mid-April.

In the southern regions, it is preferable to transplant grapes to another place in the fall. This is due to the fact that if transplanted at another time (for example, in spring or summer), the bush may not take root due to extreme heat and lack of water. The optimal time for the procedure is mid-October.

Note! Try to replant mature grapes in the fall.

Specifics of autumn transplantation

Transplanting grapes to a new place in the fall should be done only after all the leaves have fallen. It is this time that will be marked by the onset of the dormant phase, the growing season ends. But this only applies to the upper part of the plant, while the roots continue to develop. If the autumn is warm (or the vineyard grows in the southern part of the country), then replanting can be done until the beginning of November. But you can’t delay too much: the grapes need to be replanted at least two weeks before the onset of persistent cold weather. If you plant it later, the plant will most likely die.

Attention!

Seedlings transplanted to a new location in the fall certainly require shelter for the winter, regardless of the region in which they grow.

Spring transplantation: basic rules

In the spring, all procedures with plants begin to be carried out before sap flow begins and the buds wake up. But you also need to take into account the readiness of the soil for “work”. You should not start replanting too early - in cold soil the roots will not have time to wake up and begin to nourish the plant’s ground organs, which can cause it to die. In most cases, you have to create the conditions for seedlings to take root yourself: before planting, the soil is spilled with hot water to warm it up. And after planting, the stems are covered with cold soil so that the sun’s heat does not awaken the buds ahead of time.

For spring planting of grape bushes, planting holes are prepared in the fall. Under each seedling, dig an 80-centimeter hole and fill it with organic fertilizer (humus, compost). Then they are half covered with fertile soil. In the spring, when planting, a layer of soil mixture consisting of leaf soil, peat and mineral fertilizers is poured onto the bottom of the hole. In spring, seedlings take root quickly and by summer they are overgrown with the first lateral shoots and lush bright green leaves.

Summer transfer

For the summer procedure, planting holes are prepared in the same way as in the fall. They are dug up a month before planting. A fertile mixture is also prepared with which the seedlings will be filled. Since there is a lack of moisture in the summer, the soil is watered abundantly before planting. Immediately after planting the plants in a new place, the area is covered with compost or straw so that the roots do not feel thirsty during the establishment period. After transplantation, the seedlings must be shaded from excessive ultraviolet radiation reaching the plants. Grapes should not be planted close to tall fruit trees and shrubs.

Requirements for soil and earthen coma

For successful establishment, fertile soil is needed. The mechanical composition is light loam or sandy loam. Preferred acidity pH is 5 – 7, slightly acidic or neutral. Loamy soils are optimized with coarse river sand, and heavy ones with crushed bricks or fine gravel. Sandy soil is enriched with humus, ash and mineral fertilizers. Fertilizer application doses for soil optimization are shown in the table:

Transplanting grapes of different ages

Grapes of different ages have their own biological characteristics that must be taken into account when transplanting. Rules for moving grapes depending on age:

1. Annual grapes. To propagate grapes, cuttings are used - small branches that are planted in a tree for rooting. By the end of the season, the cuttings are overgrown with a weak root system and 2-4 green shoots. Rooted cuttings are transplanted to a permanent place of residence in spring or autumn. Their survival rate is very high.
2. Two year old grapes. The plant is a fairly sapling with a well-developed root system and stems. In most cases, grape seedlings can be transplanted to a new location without problems. The main thing is to trim the shoots, leaving one or two eyes on the stems. From them shoots will subsequently appear, which in the future will form the main branches of the bush.
3. Three year old grapes. This is already a fairly mature plant with lignified long sleeves and strong developed roots that go deep underground. Fruiting grapes are transplanted in the fall. The shoots must be trimmed to four buds, since the roots will not immediately be able to feed the heavily overgrown plant.
4. Four to five year old grapes. A mature plant that is very difficult to dig up, as the roots can go underground up to 100 centimeters. Dig out the bush carefully, removing the entire root system with a lump of earth from the ground. The shoots are shortened to 4-6 eyes.
5. The grapes are older than five years. This is an old plant that is difficult to tolerate various manipulations. Therefore, before replanting it, you should think about whether it is worth touching it at all. Firstly, it is almost impossible to dig up the root system without damaging it. Secondly, the ground part has already grown too much and will have to be completely removed. It is still better to propagate such grapes using layering or cuttings.

Knowledge about roots

The roots of the grapes spread equally widely and deeply in the ground. The roots grow on average to a length of 1.5 m. On fluffy soils with good ventilation and high fertility, the length of the roots can grow up to 3 m. When digging up a plant for replanting in another place, a large number of roots should be left.

On a powerful seedling, the damaged root will soon be restored, and new shoots will appear in place of the damaged ones. During summer, 2 waves of growth of the roots of the bush are known.

In temperate climates, the first wave occurs in May-July, the second occurs in September.

Therefore, at the stage of rapid growth, the crop should not be replanted, so as not to affect the rhizome during this period. When the root system grows, individual branches dry out. There will be a lot of them on perennial bushes. When replanting a grapevine, it is recommended to remove them.

How to replant grapes

This crop can be moved to a new place of growth without loss of varietal characteristics. For this, various parts of the plant are used.

Transplantation by layering

Old grape vines can be used to produce new fruit-bearing bushes. It is believed that this method of reproduction is the most accessible and effective.

Grape propagation technique by layering:

1. A long two-year developed vine with buds is selected as a “raw material”.
2. The shoot is placed in a shallow narrow groove and sprinkled with a layer of earth on top.
3. The planting is watered abundantly.
4. Over the summer, the buds located on the vine will germinate. The shoot will acquire its own root system.

You can transplant grapes to a new place in the fall. To do this, the cuttings are separated from the parent plant and planted as a separate plant.

Note!

The advantage of this method is that the cuttings are fed from the mother plant, so there is no need to worry that they are not receiving enough nutrients.

Not only the whole vine, but also short green shoots can be used as cuttings. The essence of the method is to bend the ends of such shoots to the ground and bury them, securely fastening the branches so that they do not crawl out of the ground. Already in the fall, the ends will be overgrown with roots, and then the branches can be cut off from the mother bush. Replanting rooted cuttings can be done in the fall.

Planting cuttings

Chubuki are cut from one long young (one-year-old) vine. It is important that each cutting has 2-3 eyes. The cuttings are inserted at one end into a moist, loose substrate for rooting.

After a few weeks, the first leaves appear from the eyes. This means that the root system has already formed. Then the chibouks are transplanted into a shkolka (a separate bed). There they will grow until next season. They can grow in greenhouse conditions or at home. At one year of age, the seedlings are moved to a permanent place of residence. Immediately after transplantation, they are protected from sunlight. When planted in spring, by autumn they will have taken root well and will produce their first harvest the following year.

Katavlak

A type of rooting by layering. This method is used to rejuvenate old grapes or when the vineyard needs to be thickened. To do this, the woody vines of an old grape bush are laid completely in the ground. Roots will grow from the dormant buds of the sleeves in a few years.

Katavlak can be made in several ways. The vines can be laid in one line, on top of each other or in different directions. In any case, the procedure includes fertilization with humus and mineral compounds. The vines are placed in deep grooves on a fertile, well-fertilized layer of soil. In certain places, the ends of young vines are brought to the surface - they will be the main component of the renewed bush. From the buds that remained above the surface of the earth in subsequent years, powerful fruitful shoots will grow. They will bring a new harvest in the second year of planting.

Note!

Katavlak is made only on own-rooted grape bushes.

Aftercare

Compliance with the rules of transplantation is a guarantee of a good harvest.
After transplantation, time is needed for rooting. To speed up this process, proper care is important.

Watering

In autumn there is enough moisture, so you often don’t need to water the grapes. 1-2 times is enough. As soon as it gets colder, stop watering and cover the vine.

Overmoistening the soil will lead to root rot and freezing.

Loosening the soil

There is no need to loosen the soil in the fall. Subsequent loosening and fertilization is carried out in the spring.

Top dressing

In the fall, the bush is not fed; fertilizers applied during planting are sufficient for rooting. The next year, to accelerate development, root or foliar feeding is carried out 2-3 times a year with mineral compounds containing potassium and phosphorus.

In the first year after transplantation, grapes should not be allowed to bear fruit.

Frost protection

After planting, mulch the soil with peat, make a mound of soil and cover with straw. Whether to completely cover the vine for the winter depends on the variety. Although in regions with cold climates, transplanted bushes should be covered with spunbond.

How to replant grapes in the fall

The transplant procedure requires lengthy preparatory measures. Planting pits are prepared in advance and preparatory procedures for the plant itself are carried out.

Preparing the grapes

Before starting to dig up plants, their above-ground part is shortened. Long shoots (vines) are completely cut off. The prepared bushes have two short young sleeves, each of which has 2-3 buds. The apical part of the shoots themselves is also shortened, and the cut points are treated with garden pitch or crushed coal.

3-4 days before digging, the soil is watered abundantly, so that, firstly, it is easier to pull out the bush without damaging the roots, and secondly, so that the wet earthen ball adheres securely to the roots. In young bushes the coma diameter is about 30 centimeters, in old bushes it is 45-50 centimeters. It is at this distance from the base of the stem that you need to start digging up the bushes. They dig up the plants from different sides, so that they can then pick up the roots with the bayonets of shovels and pull them to the surface without damage. If the transplant is carried out with a clod of earth, then the roots that stick out beyond it are trimmed, and the plant is placed on a flat surface (plywood, shovel). To prevent the lump from collapsing, it is carefully wrapped with some material.

Preparation of planting holes

The size of the pit depends on the maturity of the grape bush. If it is young enough and the roots have not grown too much, then the depth of the hole can be 50-60 centimeters. An adult bush is planted in a hole 100 centimeters deep. The depth of the holes also depends on the composition of the soil. If it is loose and fertile, then the roots in such soil will grow quickly vertically. It is more difficult for them to develop in dense soil, and therefore it is better to dig a larger hole so that they have room to grow. In addition, on clay soils it is necessary to arrange a drainage layer.

The distance between bushes should be at least two meters. To backfill the bushes, prepare a soil mixture consisting of turf, peat, ash and phosphate fertilizers. River sand is added to clay soil.

How to dig up bushes correctly

Grapes are replanted in three ways:

• with a lump of earth;
• with partially exposed roots;
• with an open root system.

Transplantation with a clod of earth

Planting using the transshipment method is more preferable, since with this method the root system remains intact. In addition, the roots take root faster in a new place even without any additional procedures.

Transplant technology:

1. The hole is half filled with earth.
2. The plant is not watered a couple of days before digging, so that the lump does not fall apart.
3. The earthen ball along with the roots is inserted into the hole.
4. The roots are watered with a root formation stimulator (Kornevin, Heteroauxin).
5. All the voids around the lump are covered with fertile soil, compacting each layer.
6. Having completely covered the roots, they form a trunk circle.
7. The area is watered abundantly so that the added soil sets into a lump.

Transplanting grapes with semi-bare roots or a completely open root system

It happens that while digging up a bush, the lump partially or completely collapses. This happens if the soil was too dry or the root system grew too much in different directions and the soil could not “envelop” it. If there are large pieces of dry earth left on part of the roots, it is better to remove them by gently tapping them with a stick so that they collapse.

Transplant technology:

1. For an open root system, the depth of the hole should not be too great.
2. The roots are soaked in a growth stimulator before planting. They are disinfected in a manganese solution. They are dipped in clay and manure mash so that they are wet at the moment of adhesion to the ground.
3. If the roots have dried out, they are shortened a little.
4. At the bottom of the hole, a small mound is poured onto which the bush is placed. The roots are straightened along the slopes of the mound so that their ends point only downwards.
5. The holes are filled with soil mixture, shaking the plant slightly so that the voids are filled with soil.
6. Having fallen asleep, the bush is watered. If the planting is in spring, then the tree trunk circle is mulched.

Preparation

In order to prepare grape bushes for transplanting, arm yourself with the necessary gardening tools and materials. You will need:

• shovel;
• pruner;
• clay;
• manure;
• fertilizers, for example, humus, potassium salt, superphosphate.

Preparing a grape bush

1. When digging and storing, ensure the safety of the roots of the bush, heel and underground trunk.
2. Using pruning shears, cut the vine about 20cm above the soil. Remove long shoots. Treat the sections with garden varnish or wax.
3. Carefully dig around the bush in a circle at the base, being careful not to harm the fragile grape roots. Using a shovel, carefully lift the roots in the earthen coma to the surface.

   Excavated grape bush

4. Immerse the dug up bush with its roots into the previously prepared mixture. Mix 1 shovel of clay and 2 shovels of manure, add water until you get the consistency of sour cream. You need to soak the roots in this solution for several minutes, then remove them and place them on the ground.

Pit preparation

We have already said that the pit for transplanting grapes should be ready at least a month before you plan to plant. During this time, the soil will settle a little.

Each grape bush must be planted separately, keeping a distance between them of at least 2 meters. A separate planting hole measuring 50 x 50 cm and 65-100 cm deep is prepared for each bush. When adding fertilizers and nutrients to the holes, mix them thoroughly with the soil.

Fill the hole with a bucket of water, add lumps of clay, fertile soil, sand and gravel to the bottom.

Note! You cannot add grape vines, leaves and roots to the compost that you will put in the pit for the grapes. They should be burned and the plant should be fed with ashes. But the pulp after fermentation and the seeds are excellent for feeding.

When planting, you can add a handful of barley seeds to the root area. This way the bush will take root more easily.

If the soil in your area is low in iron, correct this with iron-containing fertilizers. You can also put rusty nails or tin cans burned at the fire into the hole.

Caring for grapes after transplantation

Care measures for transplanted grapes depend on the time of transplantation. Autumn plantings must be covered for the winter. A weakened plant requires reliable protection from frost. Shelter involves filling the bases of bushes and tree trunks with earth or straw (sawdust, peat). The apical part is covered with ultrasil. To prevent fragile seedlings from breaking under the weight of non-woven material, a frame is installed above them, which is wrapped in agrofibre. You can sprinkle grass or hay on top.

In the spring, the shelter is removed, but this is done gradually. First, the base of the bush is exposed, and only then, after a few days, the stems. The bushes are protected for a couple of weeks from aggressive sunlight, which, coupled with frost, can cause burns on the plants. It is preferable to stretch a protective awning over the bushes. With the arrival of warmth, the plants will “wake up”, sap flow will begin, and the buds will swell. The appearance of the first leaves will indicate that the grape bushes have taken root. During this period, it is important to fertilize with nitrogen fertilizers, which will stimulate the seedlings to increase green mass. Further, caring for the vineyard consists of traditional agrotechnical measures related to watering, pruning, and pest control.

When planting grapes in the summer, the plants are immediately mulched to protect the soil from excessive evaporation of moisture. If grapes are replanted in the spring, then the soil contains a sufficient amount of moisture for normal plant development. Therefore, you won’t need to water the vineyard too often. It is optimal to “water” the plants once every 10 days. When planting in summer, seedlings should be watered more often, once every 6-7 days. Rooted bushes are watered rarely, but abundantly, directly at the base of the bush. It is best to arrange a drip irrigation system or small grooves around the bushes, through which moisture will flow directly to the roots. Water consumption per plant is about 20 liters. During flowering and fruit ripening, watering is stopped to avoid cracking. The last watering is carried out in August. If there is little precipitation in the fall, then moisture-charging irrigation is carried out in October.

Advice!

Combine watering with soluble fertilizers!

Summer plantings are fertilized in the fall. It is necessary to increase the vitality of plants in winter. This time they do without nitrogen fertilizers, since the plants must retire and stop vegetating. The addition of phosphorus-potassium compounds and ash will help increase the chances of survival. Grapes respond well to foliar feeding with complex mineral fertilizers. And organic mulch (compost, humus) will help strengthen the stems and increase the level of shoot growth.

When planting in autumn, insecticides are sprayed in spring. This is necessary in order to destroy insect pests that have overwintered in the ground and, with the arrival of warmth, begin to climb onto young grape stems. For protection, when neither diseases nor insects have yet managed to penetrate inside the plant cover, it is enough to treat the bushes with insecticides and contact fungicides.

Note!

In the first year, the grapes are not allowed to bear fruit, since at this time they must devote all their efforts to building a strong root system and vines. To do this, all inflorescences are removed in a timely manner. In the second year, some of the fruit clusters are removed from the bush.

What to do in spring

When warm weather sets in, the shelter is removed. Remove straw and other mulch and loosen the soil. At this time, the first feeding and preventive treatment are carried out. Before the buds swell, the vine is sprayed with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture, then a 1% solution is used.

Among fertilizers, preference is given to ash, manure, urea, and superphosphate.

If you take into account the timing and other rules of transplantation, the transplanted bush will take root. Take care of it correctly so that it grows the vine faster and bears fruit better.

Photo: pixabay.com, pinterest.com

Common mistakes when transplanting grapes

Many summer residents fail to transplant. Even successfully grown cuttings and seedlings after transplantation suddenly lose their healthy appearance, stop growing, dry out and die. This mainly happens due to improper preparation of planting material and delayed planting dates.

Main mistakes:

1. Heavy pruning. When replanting, it is recommended to trim the roots. But if only young, green ones are left at the base of the roots, while the middle and heel ones are removed, then they will not be able to bear “such a burden.” A weak root system cannot nourish the above-ground part well, as a result of which it stops developing and the grapes do not take root. Remember, the roots only need to be trimmed a little to help them grip the ground faster.
2. Replanting old grapes. Grapes take root well in the first three years of life. Every year his regenerative abilities become worse. In 99% of cases, grapes older than five years do not take root at all. Therefore, you need to choose only young and healthy grapes for replanting.
3. Transfers are not on time. If you do not guess the timing and replant much earlier or later than the period when the plant goes into hibernation or, on the contrary, wakes up, then the chances of engraftment drop sharply. It is important to determine the time for making the move: grapes should be transplanted in the fall 2-3 weeks before the onset of cold weather, and in the spring - no later than the start of sap flow.
4. Inappropriate place for transplantation. If grapes are planted in an area where this crop has previously grown, then the land in this place is very depleted. In addition, the soil may contain pathogens of grape diseases or pests that will happily begin to eat a new victim. Experts recommend planting grape seedlings in a new area where this crop has never grown before.

When there is a need to replant grapes to a new place

A transplant is necessary if you notice:

• Soil erosion. Under the influence of winds and drought, the top fertile layer dries out and becomes thinner.
• Decline in the quality and quantity of the harvest. If there are fewer and fewer berries and they become more acidic, then the soil loses its ability to nourish the vine.
• The vineyard became an area of ​​flooding or soil collapse.
• Activity of insect pests, such as ants.

When transplanting plants from areas with active breeding of insects, each vine must be sprayed with a solution of iodine and copper sulfate, or the insects will be transferred to a new place. The same applies to aphids and other pathogenic manifestations.

Important!

All these phenomena are categorical reasons for transplantation. Otherwise, you could lose the entire vineyard.

Methods for replanting mature grapevines

Vine removal

It is used when there is a need to “move” the plant several meters. Layering refers to a vegetative propagation technique: the vine is buried from a healthy bush. The use of this technique allows the crop to feed both from the roots that form from dormant buds and from the main plant. The technique is often used by plant breeders to save a dying/old bush. This is also how the empty space on the dacha plot is filled.

Replanting with a whole bush (katavlak)

The technique is used for bushes older than 5 years. Grapes are replanted in the spring, before the juice begins to flow. A hole in the form of a trench is dug near the plant - narrow and long. The grape bush is dug up and placed in a hole-trench. Young branches emerge to the surface of the soil. The technique allows you to get a harvest in the first year of the procedure.

Tips and tricks

Here are a few more tricks from experienced winegrowers:

1. If severe frosts are predicted, additional insulation is done using hay, which is laid on top of the shelter. It is removed only when the threat of frost has passed.
2. Mulching must also be carried out.
3. You should also not forget about watering - it is important that the soil is constantly moist.

Beginner mistakes

Summer residents who do not have much experience most often make the following mistakes:

1. Too many rhizomes are cut. The grapes simply cannot take root.
2. Very old bushes are moved. After 10 years, regenerative abilities decrease significantly.
3. Planting in places where grapes once grew. Bushes significantly deplete the soil; in addition, it cannot be guaranteed that there are no harmful pathogens that pose a danger to transplanted shrubs.

A serious approach and the necessary knowledge will help preserve and rejuvenate even a mature vineyard.