Strawberry Sashenka: description of the variety and its characteristics, pros and cons, planting and care, photos

In recent years, growing strawberry seedlings from seeds has become increasingly popular. A bag of seed material is inexpensive; if you sow in February or early March, you will have your first harvest this year. The large-fruited strawberry Sashenka F1 has joined the collection of hybrids that can be easily grown from purchased seeds.

Three reasons to start sowing

Growing strawberries from seeds is becoming increasingly popular. Why?

• 1. Some varieties of strawberries produce little or no whiskers, and often they turn out to be more productive than their counterparts, which are distinguished by “increased mustache,” and they are easier to care for (no need to remove the whiskers).
• 2. Any gardener strives to regularly update strawberry plantations. But a large assortment of ready-made seedlings is available only in large garden centers, and seeds can be bought at a nearby “country” store or ordered from the catalogs of specialized mailing companies. In addition, seeds are cheaper than seedlings, not to mention “free” seeds collected from your garden.
• 3. Seedlings grown from seeds are always physiologically younger than those propagated vegetatively; they are not infected with a virus or mite, which means they will bear fruit longer and more abundantly.

strawberry seedlings: planting in the ground

Large-fruited strawberry Lizonka F1 description of how to grow

Strawberry lizonka large-fruited strawberry f1. Strawberries from seeds - all season with berries

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1. Strawberry lizonka large-fruited strawberry f1. Strawberries from seeds - all season with berries
2. Description of the strawberry variety Sashenka. Characteristics and description of the variety
   Bushes and fruits
3. Productivity and ripening time
4. Frost resistance

Rules for planting strawberries

The entire further process of growing the crop depends on the choice of place for planting strawberries. To ultimately get a harvest of selected berries, taking into account the characteristics of the Maxim strawberries, use simple recommendations:

1. Do not choose places located on slopes on the south side for cultivating Maxim strawberries. In such places, the snow melts earlier than usual, so the plants will be “naked” and defenseless against spring frosts.
2. Low-lying areas are also not suitable for growing strawberries. It's too cold here in the evening.
3. Avoid open, highly windy areas.
4. Having chosen a place, develop the bed so that the slope is formed in the south-west direction.
5. Plant seedlings in the spring, when the ground warms up.
6. Mulch the area chosen for planting with compost.
7. Cover the soil with agrofibre and make holes in it, plant strawberry bushes. This way you will protect the area from uncontrolled growth of weeds, and the strawberry root system from severe winter frosts.
8. If you refuse to use agrofibre cloth, plant the seedlings and then mulch the soil with dry pine needles.
9. Before placing in the dug holes, trim the strawberry roots by 10 mm.
10. Make sure that during planting the root is positioned vertically in the hole, pointing downwards.
11. Plant strawberries at a distance of 50 cm between seedlings. Densely planted bushes will not bring a good harvest.

Reviews

I see no point in planting strawberries with seeds. In 2016, I became very excited about the idea and bought several varieties. As a result, the bushes from one bag grew different. It seems that not all varietal characteristics are transferred when strawberries are planted by seeds. For example, Sashenka seems to be a variety from SeDek, but it is not on the State Commission website, so it turns out that it was not registered in Russia. Anything can happen and no one will be responsible for it.

The high-yielding and large-fruited Sashenka strawberry is suitable for growing in regions with difficult climates. In cold areas, the fruiting season is extended with the help of film cover. Strawberries are tasty, beautiful, and not difficult to care for. Thanks to these qualities, it attracts gardeners and is considered one of the best early ripening varieties.

Features of cultivation

Sashenka strawberries are grown according to the standard scheme. As with other plants of this crop, it is necessary to do weeding, loosening the soil above the bushes, and watering. It is also necessary to feed the plant during the growing season. Sashenka can be grown in almost all soils; it is not very picky about them. However, gardeners have noticed that particularly rich harvests can be obtained if strawberries are grown on structured and light soils that are rich in humus. Limestone, marshy, slate and saline soils are not suitable for strawberries. The plant will be sick and wither there.

It is important to replant and renew strawberries once every 3-4 years

Note: About the benefits of nest eggs

I want to share my experience in growing remontant strawberry seedlings. I'll start in order. In February of this year, I sowed store-bought seeds. Out of four bags of different varieties, only seven plants sprouted. I was upset by this result: after all, the packages indicated that this was high-quality planting material. And then I remembered that I had one stash in my bins. Two years ago I had such a generous harvest of remontant strawberries that I even put the berries through an electric dryer, then putting them in paper bags.

When I ate these gifts of summer in winter, I found seeds in the bags that had fallen off the fruits, which I did not throw away and put them aside just in case. And it turns out that she didn’t do it in vain!

I took the risk of sowing these seeds in containers with soil. And what do you think? They all sprouted and began to grow quickly. In May, I planted all the seedlings in open ground. But I didn’t admire the strawberry bed for long: the insidious return frosts seriously “shocked” my plantings. And then I sowed the remaining seeds directly into the ground between the frozen bushes (again I saved some of them, and again not in vain!). And they rose quickly, but very often. I fed them and, without replanting, left them until winter.

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We'll see how they survive the winter. But the main idea is this: in the spring there are already a lot of different seedlings to grow, but, as always, there is not enough space for them at home. And here it turns out that in the spring you can sow your prepared seeds immediately on a prepared bed, so that you can then calmly plant them in a permanent place. This is how tips on growing plants come unexpectedly.

Large-fruited strawberry Lyubasha deserves special attention. Thanks to its juicy, aromatic fruits and easy care, summer residents often want to see it on their plots. This variety is characterized by good yield and unpretentiousness. To enjoy berries throughout the season, it is enough to follow a number of simple rules.

Site selection and soil preparation

Garden strawberries feel great in sunny areas. If there is a slight darkening, this will not be a problem. The area chosen for planting seedlings is carefully dug up and fertilized. A bucket of organic fertilizer is used per square meter.

The Czech variety does not take root well on clay soil and prefers loose soil. To do this, sand is added to the soil. If the acidity is high, it needs to be neutralized. Dolomite flour, ash or ordinary lime demonstrates high efficiency. Per square meter of plantings use 0.5 kilograms of the substance.

Site preparation

Strawberry variety "Roxana": description, cultivation and pest control

A special base for sowing is made from three equal shares of sand and humus, consisting of five parts. It is necessary that the humus is already decomposed and crumbles. The prepared mixture is mixed well and sifted.

If you start sowing in the middle of winter in the prepared mixture, the bushes of the grown plants will become larger by the time it is necessary to transplant them into an open plot. The first shoots begin to appear within one month.

Therefore, it is recommended to illuminate the seedlings with a lamp throughout the month, day and night. After a month, the light must be left on for up to ten hours during the day and turned off at night.

It is not recommended to place slightly sprouted seedlings on the sunny side. Because of this, the seedlings may die. It is best to place it in a place where there is more shade.

a brief description of

Advantages of the variety

• balanced sweet and sour taste;
• rich aroma;
• large fruit;
• the ability to obtain a harvest in the year of sowing;
• ease of reproduction;
• good winter hardiness (there are reviews about the absence of attacks when grown in Siberia with frosts of -45C);
• drought resistance;
• good adaptation to any soil composition;
• resistance to adverse weather conditions;
• extended fruiting period;
• high yield.

Disadvantages of the variety

• sensitivity to waterlogging;
• tendency to quickly overgrow the plantation.

Compliance with standard rules for caring for strawberries will allow you to avoid these shortcomings.

Chemical composition

Nutritional value (per 100 grams of raw berries)

Vitamin composition (in milligrams per 100 grams of raw berries)

Nutrient balance (in milligrams per 100 grams of raw berries)

Strawberries

Strawberries have gained a reputation as a rare delicacy. Only 3 weeks a year it can be seen packaged in plastic cups at the spontaneous market. The ripening period for both wild and cultivated varieties is identical, so the population tries to grab as many berries as possible in a short time. Strawberries are ahead of strawberries in several respects. Its taste is much sweeter and more expressive, and the aroma persists even after prolonged heat treatment. Strawberries look more neat and noble (an analogy can be drawn with tomatoes and cherry tomatoes), and fit perfectly into the structure of both sweet and savory dishes.

Features of cultivation

High-quality Nadezhda strawberry seedlings can be found in many nurseries and stores, as they are not uncommon. Good seedling material will be the key to successful propagation. Before planting, you should not shake off all the soil from the roots, because strawberries are highly sensitive to the loss of soil protection of the roots and dry out quickly. Completely bare roots will have difficulty taking root in a new place.

Strawberries need a sufficient hole size, especially such tall ones as Nadezhda. It is useful to pour a little complex fertilizer or ammonium nitrate into the dug holes before planting. After the bushes are dug in, they need to be watered - 5 liters per 1 square meter is enough. meter. With checkerboard or row planting methods, the distance between bushes should be at least 30-40 cm.

Cultivated berries must be regularly weeded and protected from weeds, as they draw nutrients from the soil. Under the weight of the berries, the branches may bend to the ground and begin to deteriorate - this can be prevented by mulching. During the dry season, Nadezhda strawberries need regular watering at the rate of 4-5 liters per 1 square meter. meter.

Positive and negative qualities of garden strawberries Mashenka

This variety has a number of advantages and disadvantages. First of all, let's talk about the advantages of this variety. Among the main advantages it is worth noting:

1. Large-fruited berries. This is especially true for the fruits of the first harvest.
2. High yields. If you take good care of your strawberries, you can harvest up to 1.5 kg from 1 bush.
3. Dessert taste qualities. Tasting rating of Mashenka’s berries – 4.4 out of 5 points.
4. The variety has a fairly strong immune system, which protects the plant not only from a number of strawberry diseases, but also from attacks by parasites.
5. The bushes survive frosts and short-term droughts quite well.
6. The variety is quite easy to propagate using a mustache.

At the same time, we should not forget about Mashenka’s shortcomings. The main disadvantages of this variety include:

1. The berries are rather poorly stored and transported due to their high juiciness.
2. The berries cannot be frozen, as after defrosting they turn into mush.

Description of the variety

Strawberry Sashenka is an early-ripening remontant variety that has practically no mustache. The plant is distinguished by a compact semi-spreading bush. Its height and width are about 25-30 cm

During flowering, almost the entire bush is covered with large flowers that attract the attention of insects. Flowers are soft pink, very beautiful and decorative.

The flowers of this variety are bisexual, collected in inflorescences of 5-7 pieces. The berries ripen simultaneously both on the main bushes and on young rosettes, which are located on a few tendrils. The leaves have a trifoliate shape and the color is light green. The edge of the leaf is serrated. All leaves are densely pubescent underneath.

Growing

Growing conditions. Strawberries are extremely demanding of moisture and highly fertile soil.

Agricultural technology

Care

Wild strawberries respond well to fertilization. Before planting, when preparing the site, manure (2 kg/m2), superphosphate (30 g/m2) and potassium salt (10 g/m2) are added.

Reproduction

It is better to propagate strawberries with tendrils - horizontal shoots creeping along the ground. As seedlings, rosettes that are shortened and separated from the tendrils are used, which are dug up at the end of August. Rosettes are planted on a plot according to a 30x30x50 cm pattern, i.e. in rows with a distance from one bush to another 30 cm, the distance between rows is 50 cm. Plants are planted in prepared holes so that the apical buds of the shoots are above the soil surface, and the root buds the system fit well into the hole. After planting, the plants are watered well and watered again in the next 6-7 days, and then mulched

Reproduction

Bushes age very quickly and lose their ability to produce crops, so you need to think about rejuvenating the plantation in advance. Sashenka belongs to the F1 hybrids, so it will not be possible to collect seeds from the fruits. The new plant will not inherit all the characteristics of the variety. For propagation, they buy seeds from breeders or propagate the variety with whisker rosettes.

The strongest are considered to be the first and second order sockets. Experienced gardeners plant strawberries in advance with ribbons in order to guide the tendrils between the rows and propagate the variety. In the future, the old bushes are uprooted, the young ones are left. This agrotechnical technique allows you to always have young, strong plants on the plantation.

Contraindications and possible side effects

Who are the berries contraindicated for:

1. People with individual intolerance to the product or components included in the composition.
2. Patients with pathologies of the gastrointestinal tract at the acute stage or at any stage, if prohibited by the treating doctor.
3. Pregnant women are advised to reduce the amount of berries in their diet. Strawberries are a fairly strong allergen, which can have a detrimental effect on the baby’s condition.

It was not for nothing that our parents took away our third glass of strawberries, justifying this with impending stomach pain and rashes. Excessive consumption of berries will really have a bad effect on both the skin and well-being. A specific reaction occurs in the body to saturation with acids and vitamins. The result is a rash all over the body or individual parts of it, malfunctions of the digestive system.

The occurrence of irritation on the dermis is accompanied by pain and a constant feeling of discomfort. The rash always itches, and from contact with an irritant (our hand, clothing material, air) it becomes even more damaged and can become infected. As for the deterioration of the condition, the manifestations are purely individual. Some people feel sick, some lose consciousness, others get away with occasional abdominal pain.

How to freeze strawberries for the winter

The best option is to freeze freshly harvested product.
The berries need to be sorted, leaving only whole and not crushed ones. The main feature of strawberries is that they contain a lot of sand and soil, so it is imperative to wash the strawberries. The berries are left in a bowl of water for 10-15 minutes. Be sure to read: Benefits and harms of sour berries

Then they are dried - no moisture should be left. Next, remove the stalks and place the berries in a colander again. The table should be covered with a towel, and the clean product should be placed on it. If there is space between the berries, the surface will dry out faster.

Next, clean strawberries need to be laid out on a tray - there should be free space between the berries. To avoid staining the tray, you can cover it with cling film. Next, freeze the product for about 2 hours. The optimal temperature is about -18°C.

The frozen product can be transferred to a container and placed back in the refrigerator. As a suitable option, a special storage bag is used.

The optimal shelf life of strawberries is about a year. Frozen strawberries can be used to make a variety of desserts or smoothies.

Sowing

Since the Irishka variety does not throw away its mustache, strawberries are propagated by sowing seeds for seedlings. Irishka seeds have a 50% germination rate, so compliance with sowing rules plays an important role. Sowing of seedlings is carried out from the beginning of February until April in containers with prepared soil mixture. The soil for sowing seedlings is prepared with the following composition:

• 3 parts good humus;
• 2 parts of garden soil (crumbly, without lumps or roots);
• 1 part peat from the store.

Fill 10 cm of seedling boxes with this mixture and disinfect them with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Then, using a ruler, at a distance of 4 cm, draw grooves 3 cm deep, and lay strawberry seeds in them at intervals of 2 cm. Do not sprinkle the seedlings with soil. Cover the boxes with plastic wrap and place them in a warm place, with a temperature of at least 22 degrees Celsius.

Watering is done very carefully, using a spray bottle or syringe, making sure that the seeds are not washed off the surface of the soil base. The film must be removed to ventilate the seedlings for several hours, preventing condensation from appearing on its surface

When shoots appear, the film is removed.

When the seedlings produce 5-6 good leaves, the strawberries are ready to be planted in open ground.

Characteristics and description of the variety

The variety of early ripe remontant strawberry Sashenka F1 is a first generation hybrid, as evidenced by the designation F1 in the name. Thanks to the development of modern breeders, the hybrid has received high-yielding properties and excellent taste. The variety is one of the largest-fruited and early-ripening for open ground.

It bears fruit in the first year and ripens in 40–50 days. Fruiting lasts for a long time - from June until frost, which puts the plant into a state of dormancy.

During the season, the plant produces many shoots with rosettes that easily take root when in contact with the soil. The first 2–3 sockets are the largest. The roots on them are well formed, which makes it possible to immediately plant them in the ground.

The seeds are small and hard to germinate. Poor germination may be caused by improper storage conditions - seeds require low temperatures during storage. The average price of a bag of seeds (15 pcs.) is 60–80 rubles. Strawberry Sashenka F1 has good taste and is universal in use.

Did you know? W. Shakespeare in his work “Othello” used strawberries as a symbolic decoration on Desdemona’s scarf.

Bushes and fruits

The bush is compact, semi-spreading, up to 25–30 cm in height with light green trifoliate leaves, densely pubescent below. Leaf petioles up to 10 cm long. Peduncles are 20–30 cm long and located above the leaves. Usually 4–8 peduncles with 4–10 flowers are formed on the bush.

The flowers are white and bloom sequentially. The duration of flowering is constant throughout the season. The bush contains both flowers and ripe fruits.

The berries are large (up to 35 g), formed in large quantities, and ripen unevenly. The berries in young areas and those that ripen first are the largest and can weigh up to 50 g. The color is glossy, deep red, both inside and out. Even the berries that haven't turned red have a sweet taste with a good sweet-sour balance. There are yellow spots of seeds on the surface.

The pulp is medium dense, fragrant and sweet, so it is better to eat the berries fresh. But culinary processing is also possible. The aroma and taste of berries depends on the intensity of sunlight, the amount of moisture and nutrients that the plant receives during growth.

Productivity and ripening time

Sashenka F1 bears fruit from June until autumn frosts. Flowering and fruiting times depend on weather conditions - possible frosts can destroy the first flowers and buds.

With good agricultural technology, the yield is up to 2 kg of berries from each adult bush. The total yield for the season depends on the growing region - some of the berries (up to 20%) go into winter unripe in regions with early frosts. You can increase the yield by removing all the tendrils from the bush if they are not useful for propagation.

Frost resistance

The problem of frost resistance has been solved by selection - the variety tolerates frosty winters well down to -25...-30°C and does not freeze even without shelter with sufficient snow cover (up to 10 cm). The variety is drought-resistant and even in hot months keeps the leaves green.

Protection from diseases and pests

Covering beds with covering material is a good option for protecting flowers and berries from birds. You can stretch a wire along the beds and hang rustling films, shiny objects or bells on it. Mesh materials cannot always protect the crop - birds peck berries through them.

Experienced gardeners share tips for protecting berries from birds - stretch white twine over the garden bed. Birds are afraid of white color - they fly up to the beds, but do not dare to peck the berries. Another remedy is onions. It is enough to cut it and throw it on the beds. Some place inflated balloons with painted faces among the beds. For ants, it is recommended to spray the places where insects accumulate with a solution of oil and vinegar, a solution of ammonia (8 g per 10 liters of water) or sprinkle the rows with soda. Strawberries can be affected by diseases and pests.

Possible damage and control measures:

• gray rot — biological products “Fitosporin”, “Fito-plus”, solution of Bordeaux mixture (1%), timely picking of berries, avoiding over-ripening on the bushes, good ventilation of the bushes, raising the beds above ground level;

• powdery mildew — “Topaz”, “Fundazol”, copper sulfate, Bordeaux mixtures.

• white and brown leaf spot — spraying with preparations “Zircon”, “Fitosporin”, solution of Bordeaux mixture (1%);

• beetles and slugs — the use of sand mulch and pine needles can repel pests;

• spider mites — chemicals “Apollo”, “Neoron”, “Phosbecid”, colloidal sulfur (according to instructions); the drugs are poisonous and use is possible only after fruiting;

• slobber - pour a hot (+65...+70°C) solution of potassium permanganate of a bright pink color onto the bushes, the same method helps in the fight against ticks;

• nematodes - parasites that cause damage to all parts of the plant; in case of infection, the bush must be removed and burned;

• weevils - spraying with a solution of the biological product "Fitoverm" or "Iskra-bio", you can eat the berries after 2 days.

The following measures can be used to prevent damage:

• keep the beds clean and free of weeds and plant debris;
• plants with signs of damage should be removed and burned;
• do not thicken the plantings and improve the soil structure for aeration;
• timely feeding with nutrients;
• To plant new areas, use only healthy planting material.

Application in cosmetology

During the berry season, the “folk cosmetologist” awakens in every woman. All food brought home ends up on the face first, and only then on the plate. Women are accustomed to spending their time as rationally as possible and doing several things at the same time. The preparation time for strawberry pie or muffins can be combined with applying a strawberry mask to the face, lips and crease of the upper eyelid. Strawberries fight hyperpigmentation, post-acne, dry out existing acne and visibly rejuvenate. How to use the berry for the benefit not only of digestion, but also of natural beauty:

Apply a quick nourishing mask. Wash the berries thoroughly, cut them in half and rub the halves on your face. Get ready for your skin to turn red. It looks like you've been skinned alive, so warn your family about beauty treatments. Keep the mask on your face for 10-25 minutes, rinse with warm water and apply your usual skincare products. Freeze the strawberries with ice cubes. You can crush strawberries and mix them with ice or freeze whole berries - the effect will be identical. Every morning should start with an icy, relaxing massage. Take frozen berry ice and gently rub it along the massage lines on your face. The massage will smooth out fine wrinkles, ice will refresh the skin, give tone, and strawberries will nourish it with vitamins and moisturize. Add crushed strawberries to your basic care products

Please note that the sales period for such cosmetics is reduced several times. As soon as you smell the putrid odor of the cream, throw it away.

This indicates rotting of the berries. A spoiled ingredient will no longer be able to nourish the skin and will act exactly the opposite. If you are not confident in your cosmetic abilities, then do not be discouraged and purchase a special line at a pharmacy or mass market containing strawberries. Pay attention to the composition: the berry should be in the first position in the composition and listed as an ingredient, not a flavoring.

Growing and care

Care measures are standard. Regular watering, loosening, removing weeds and fertilizing 2-3 times per season will be required.

Watering

In the absence of natural precipitation, Sashenka strawberries are watered every 3-5 days, after the soil dries out a little. Due to prolonged waterlogging, the berries become watery and sour. Since strawberries bloom almost constantly, it is advisable to organize a drip irrigation system.

Loosening, weed control

Strawberry Sashenka absolutely cannot stand being in the vicinity of weeds. Weeding must be done regularly. Surface loosening of the soil (to a depth of 3-4 cm) has a beneficial effect on the nutrition of the roots and prevents the development of weeds.

Removing a mustache

If space allows, rosettes are left to obtain additional harvest. It is necessary to ensure that the bed does not thicken. The excess mustache is cut off so that a stump of 3-5 cm remains.

Top dressing

Fertilizing strawberries should include organic matter and mineral water-soluble components. The Sashenka variety is fed according to the following scheme:

• after the snow melts, 0.5 liters of mullein solution (1 kg per 10 liters) is added under each bush;
• in May, the bushes are watered at the root with potassium nitrate (1 teaspoon of the substance per 10 liters). Each plant should receive 0.5 feeding;
• in August, wood ash is scattered in the root circle and incorporated into the soil by loosening.

An effective fertilizer for strawberries in the spring and summer is nettle infusion. A bucket or barrel is filled with green mass to two-thirds of its volume. Fill with water and cover. After 3 days, the infusion is diluted 1:10 and the strawberry beds are fertilized. This procedure can be combined with watering 3-5 times per season.

Pest and disease control

Garden strawberry Sashenka has high immunity to diseases. With prolonged exposure to stress factors, it may weaken. A predisposing condition is prolonged waterlogging, which causes root rot and fungal infections. Viruses are also often carried by aphids, which must be destroyed promptly.

When growing strawberries in greenhouses, there is a danger that the plants will get powdery mildew. Powdery mildew can kill more than half the crop.

Diseases are easier to prevent than to treat. Preventive measures include the following:

• In early spring and after fruiting, plants are sprayed with a 1% solution (a 3% solution can be used before the growing season) of Bordeaux mixture. If there is a danger of a fungal disease outbreak, the treatment is repeated.
• After prolonged rains, the bushes are sprayed with a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate.
• Dill, fennel, lemon balm, mint, garlic, onions, marigolds and calendula are planted around the beds, which serve as natural fungicides and repel pests.
• Do not allow the beds to become overgrown with weeds.
• Dry leaves are removed in a timely manner, old and diseased plants are uprooted and destroyed.

A popular folk remedy for the prevention of diseases of berry crops is an infusion of onion peels. 500 g of raw materials are poured into 10 liters of water and infused for 3 days. Treatments with infusion are performed weekly.

Further care of the crop

Crop care consists of developing a watering and fertilizing regime, protecting against pests and diseases, and properly preparing plants for winter.

Watering and fertilizing

Since 70% of strawberry roots are in the top (8–10 cm) layer of soil, they are especially susceptible to drying out. Moisture is incredibly important for these roots, and plants need plenty of water in the spring as shoots grow and flower, and again in the fall as the plants mature and go into deep dormancy. Excess moisture will also not be beneficial - the root system may rot, and the berries will become watery and tasteless.

In dry spring, plantings are watered with a water consumption rate of 10 l/m², avoiding stagnation. Young seedlings especially need irrigation, which are watered with warm water (0.5 liters per bush) during the first 2 weeks every 2 days. During the fruiting period, the soil should be moistened by 70%, and after harvesting, reduce it to 60%. If the summer is rainy, then watering is stopped completely, and the plantings are covered with a thin transparent film.

Since Sashenka F1 blooms all season, drip watering is considered the most optimal , as it avoids water getting on the leaves and flowers.

Mulching helps retain soil moisture and reduce weed growth and the spread of disease. Modern black spunbond material will protect plantings from the airborne spread of fungal spores. You can use dry grass, bark, chips, sawdust in a layer of up to 10 cm. Covering the beds will prevent splashing of the soil during rains and during watering, as well as spoilage and contamination of the fruit.

Weeding is done carefully by hand, especially in the first months after planting, since the rosettes are not yet well rooted and there is a risk of damaging the small roots. Loosening is carried out to a depth of 7–8 cm.

Long-term fruiting requires a lot of nutrients, and the variety needs frequent feeding (1-2 times a month) with organic matter and mineral compounds. Since the berries are consumed fresh, fertilizing should not be done during the harvest period.

Top dressing is done with fertilizers containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium and for every 1 m² the following is added:

• in the spring, during the first loosening - superphosphate (10–20 g), ammonium nitrate or ammonium sulfate (10–15 g), potassium chloride (5–10 g);
• in the berry formation phase - superphosphate (25–30 g), ammonium nitrate and potassium chloride (10 g each).

Fertilizing with organic matter (manure, bird droppings) is carried out along the furrows along the beds.
Then the grooves are covered with soil. Organic matter is diluted with water 6–8 times. Consumption - 4 liters per linear meter. Liquid fertilizing is best combined with watering. Important! Excess nitrogen in the soil, with uncontrolled application of organic matter or urea, can lead to plant disease with gray rot.
Foliar feeding is alternated with root feeding and the bushes are sprayed on the leaves with an interval of 10 days:

• flowering phase and berry formation phase - fertilizing with zinc sulfate (20%);
• in August-September, when laying flower buds (peduncles), treat with urea solution (0.3%).

Preparing for winter

When the growing season is over, mow or cut the bushes to 2-3 cm in height, and mulch the beds with a 10 cm layer of straw, pine needles, fallen leaves or other organic material. This must be done at the first frost, when the air temperature reaches –6°C. In early spring, the mulch is removed after the danger of frost has passed.

Before winter, care should be taken to lay out a new site. If you do not delay planting the mustaches and plant a plot in July, then the bushes will have time to create several horns (growth points) by winter, get stronger and grow. This means that in the spring they will produce not one, but several flower stalks, and the harvest of berries will be plentiful.